A short overview of reflection formulations and suggestions for implementation in SWAN

The reflection implemented in SWAN version 40.11 is just specular reflection. It gives the mirror image of the action density spectrum, cutting it off for all directions that are not directed towards the obstacle and multiplying it by the reflection factor C_r^2 (square because the reflection factor is w.r.t. wave height). To improve the...

Experimental study of blockage of monochromatic waves by counter currents

Blockage of waves by a current can occur if waves are propagating on a spatially varying opposing current in which the velocity is increasing in the wave propagation direction. The ongoing waves become shorter and steeper while they are propagating against the current. Blocking occurs at the location where the opposing current strength is the...

Bragg Reflection of Infragravity Waves by Sandbars

Using a multiple-scale perturbation method we derive a set of governing equations describing the transformation of long wave and short wave components in a wave group. These equations are derived from Boussinesq equations with the assumption that the length scale of wave group modulation is in the same order of magnitude as that of the bottom...

Europoortkering: Seiches-berekeningen in het kader van het project "Europoortkering met open Beerdam"

Recent Italian Experience in the Design and Construction of Vertical Breakwaters

Italy is often considered as a mother country of vertical breakwaters for harbour protection, since they have been widely used all along our coasts long since. An updated location map is given in fig. 1, which also shows the position of the directional wave recording stations of the existing Italian network. The most common vertical breakwaters...

Stormvloedkering Nieuwe Waterweg - seiches berekeningen, tweede fase: Maatregelen ter reductie van het Europoortgebied en op de Nieuwe Waterweg

Europoortkering: Seiches-berekeningen in het kader van de tracé-nota Europoortkering

Stormvloedkering Nieuwe Waterweg - seiches berekeningen, eerste fase: Het effect van een kering op lange golven in het Europoortgebied en op de Nieuwe Waterweg

The Measurement of Incident and Reflected Spectra Using a Least squares Method

A least squares method to separate the incident and reflected spectra from the measured co-existing spectra is presented. This method requires a simultaneous measurement of the waves at three positions in the flume which are in reasonable proximity to each other and are on a line parallel to the direction of wave propagation. Experimental...

Stormvloedkering Oosterschelde: Reflektiecoëfficient en overslag bij roosterschuiven : verslag modelonderzoek

Reflection and Transmission Characteristics of Porous Rubble-Mound Breakwaters

This report presents the results of a study of the reflection and transmission characteristics of porous rubble-mound breakwaters. An attempt was made at making the procedures entirely self-contained by introducing empirical relationships for the hydraulic characteristics of the porous material and by establishing experimentally an empirical...

Wave transmission through rock structures

Application of the energy method leads to a theoretical expression of the coefficient of transmission through a prismatic structure, constructed from rocks of uniform size, for long waves traversing the structure. When the dissipation in the voids is due partly to turbulent forces, the transmissions are expressed by a power formula . The formula...

Manuscripten van H.J. Schoemaker uit de periode 1946-1971: Deel D: Golven van het wateroppervlak

D1: Golven van het wateroppervlak, grondformules in eerste benadering (1956) D2: Golfvervorming door wind; overzicht van de ontwikkelingen tot 1955 (1955) D3: Second-order effects in progressinve surface waves (1961) D4: Golven in stromend water (1960) D5: Diffractie (1950) D6: Investigations of the reflection of waves (1949)