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Boccotti, P. (author)Analysis of sea states in deep water. - Discussed will be the difficulties of an analytical solution for the wave period and the wave height probability - The closed solution for the wave height probability in the limit of the band-width approaching zero - The closed solution for the wave height probability in the limit H/sqrt(m0)->inf. - The...report 1992
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Svendsen, A. (author)Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline. When waves break on a gently sloping beach, large amounts of energy are released and turned into turbulence. As the waves keep breaking and interacting with...report 1992
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Dalrymple, R.A. (author)The propagation of waves from offshore to onshore is a difficult problem due to the mathematical complexities of the governing equations and the degree of uncertainty of the bathymetry over which the waves must travel. In this lecture, the various methods of transforming offshore wave trains to shallow water are discussed. First, single wave...report 1992
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Bijker, E.W. (author)The motivation to develop a transport formulation for the combination of waves and current has been the necessity to model longshore transport passing tidal in- and outlets. The generally applied C.E.R.C. formula for the longshore transport is not applicable here because that formula relates the longshore transport to the longshore current...report 1992
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Van Leeuwen, P.J. (author), Klopman, G. (author)For the generation of second-order random waves in a flume the control signal for the wave board has to be correct up to second order. An expression for this control signal is derived with the perturbation method of multiple scales. It is much less complex and requires less computation time than the expressions obtained from the full second...report 1991
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Peregrine, D.H. (author)The aim of this workshop was to take advantage of the recent freedom available to scientists in the Soviet Union (now Commonwealth of Independent States) to travel to the West in order to develop both contacts and an awareness of current research between research workers from East and West, most of whom have formerly had little contact. We...report 1991
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Reniers, A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author)In the following we consider the forcing of long waves by normally or obliquely incident grouped short waves, also known as surf beat. Two mechanisms responsible for the generation of long waves are considered: the release of the bound long waves associated with changes in the spatial variation of the incident short wave energy [Longuet-Higgins...report 1990
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Katsui, H. (author)The probabilistic design method of a cover layer of pipe line under the horizontal bottom is described. By assuming that the water velocity at the bottom is Rayleigh distributed, probability of bottom shear stress was derived. With a combination of the probability function of bottom shear and a simple sediment transport formula given by Madsen...report 1982
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Gerritsen, F. (author)This study deals with the breaking of waves on coastal reefs, with special emphasis on energy dissipation (wave height attenuation), wave spectrum modification and the characteristics of wave set-up. It has an engineering perspective; its main objective is to provide the practicing engineer with much needed information on the design conditions...report 1981
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Van Hijum, E. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)Het doel van het onderzoek is om te komen tot een inventarisatie van literatuur met betrekking tot snelheidvelden in golven. Aan de hand van deze inventarisatie kan in een later stadium inzicht worden verkregen in de toepasbaarheid van bestaande golftheorieen of worden overgegaan tot de opzet van een beschrijvend model van het snelheidsveld...report 1980
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- Vis, F.C. (author) report 1980
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- Schmitke, Rodney T. (author) report 1978
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Herbich, J.B. (author), Brahme, S.B. (author)Maximum bottom velocities caused by waves were calculated using digital computers. Four wave theories, Airy, Stokes third order, Cnoidal and Solitary,were applied in the computation. Results of the study were tabulated and presented graphically to highlight the importance of various parameters affecting the maximum bottom velocity. It is...report 1977
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Battjes, J.A. (author)Background material for a special lecture on probabilistic aspects of ocean waves for a seminar in Trondheim. It describes long term statistics and short term statistics. Statistical distributions of waves, directional spectra and frequency spectra. Sea state parameters, response peaks, encounter probability.report 1977
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- Dingemans, M.W. (author) report 1977
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Roos, A. (author)The run-up of waves is an important factor in the design of shore structures. It has been investigated in many studies, both theoretical and experimental. The experimental studies have mostly been confined to the maximum run-up (the greatest height above still water level, reached by the periodic waves on the slope). A simple and reliable...report 1975
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Dean, R.W. (author)Table for wave computations.report 1974
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Hasselmann, K. (author), Barnett, T.P. (author), Bouws, E. (author), Carlson, H. (author), Cartwright, D.E. (author), Enke, K. (author), Ewing, J.A. (author), Gienapp, H. (author), Hasselmann, D.E. (author), Kruseman, P. (author), Meerburg, A. (author), Müller, P. (author), Olbers, D.J. (author), Richter, K. (author), Sell, W. (author), Walden, H. (author)"Wave spectra were measured along a profile extending 160 kilometers into the North Sea westward from Sylt for a period often weeks in 1968 and 1969. During the main experiment in July 1969, thirteen wave stations were in operation, of which six stations continued measurements into the first two weeks of August. A smaller pilot experiment was...report 1973
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Dean, R.G. (author)Volume I of this report presents the results of a research program to evaluate and develop water wave theories for engineering application. A second volume of this report presents wave tables developed for preliminary design in offshore problems. Volume I describes: (1) an evaluation of the degree to which various available wave theories satisfy...report 1972
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Schoemaker, H.J. (author)D1: Golven van het wateroppervlak, grondformules in eerste benadering (1956) D2: Golfvervorming door wind; overzicht van de ontwikkelingen tot 1955 (1955) D3: Second-order effects in progressinve surface waves (1961) D4: Golven in stromend water (1960) D5: Diffractie (1950) D6: Investigations of the reflection of waves (1949)report 1971