Modelling Scour in Front of Dune Revetments in a Surf-beat Model

This paper presents adaptations to the XBeach model aimed at including the relevant processes for the generation of scour holes at the toe of a revetment. Dutch assessment rules for the safety of sea defenses need to be adjusted to cope with a combination of sandy dunes and hard elements. To that end, the XBeach model is prepared to be...

Alternative Source Terms for SWAN in the Coastal Region

This paper presents the application of new source terms in SWAN for the dominant water wave physics in the coastal zone: depth-induced breaking and triad wave-wave interactions. We present results demonstrating increased modelling skill in the prediction of bulk wave parameters e.g. significant wave height and of the spectral shape compared to...