Growth of longshore currents downstream of a surf-zone barrier

Momentum flux considerations are used to formulate a differential equation governing the growth, with distance, of the mean longshore current velocity in the surf-zone on a plane, impermeable beach due to monochromatic waves. The equation is solved for the flow situation downstream of a surf-zone barrier and is shown to compare favorably with...

Experimental study of longshore currents on a plane beach

Measurements are made of the characteristics of breaking waves and the resulting longshore currents for 34 combinations of wave height (up to 0.22 feet), period (0.90 to 1.50 seconds), and breaker angle (up to 320), along a 20 foot test section of a 30 foot plane, smooth concrete beach with a 0.104 slope. Techniques are developed to measure the...

Properties of shoaling waves by theory and experiment