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Battjes, J.A. (author), Beji, S. (author)Nonlinear aspects of breaking and non-breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar have been investigated by laboratory experiments, with special emphasis on the generation of high-frequency energy. Data collected from the measurements are used for computing spectral and bispectral estimates in order to assess the contribution of...conference paper 1991
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Gerritsen, F. (author)This study deals with the breaking of waves on coastal reefs, with special emphasis on energy dissipation (wave height attenuation), wave spectrum modification and the characteristics of wave set-up. It has an engineering perspective; its main objective is to provide the practicing engineer with much needed information on the design conditions...report 1981