Rip current predictions through model-data assimilation on two distinct beaches

This paper describes the development of a physics-based rip current prediction system called CoSMoS. This system consists of a hydrodynamic prediction system which is composed of a train of surge and wave models from the global scale to the scale of a beach resort (order kilometers). For the beach resort scale model, it is of utmost importance...

Monitoring of beach surface properties with remote sensing

Existing aeolian transport formulae tend to overestimate the sediment transport volumes in coastal environments. Supply limiting factors like moisture content, shell patches, sediment sorting, vegetation and morphological features are believed to explain these overestimations. These supply limitations act on a variety of spatio-temporal scales...

Advection and diffusion of shore-attached sand nourishments

Understanding of the behaviour of coastline perturbations at soft-coastlines is essential for modelling coastal evolution at decadal time scales. Many coastline models do, for example, implicitly assume dominant diffusive behaviour of coastline features. The validity of this assumption is investigated for the Dutch coast on the basis of data on...

The sand engine: A solution for vulnerable deltas in the 21st century?

The Netherlands’ strategy to combat coastal erosion since 1990 has been through nourishment, initially as beach nourishments but more and more as shoreface nourishments. In the light of sea level rise projections the yearly nourishment magnitudes continue to increase. In view of this an innovative soft engineering intervention, comprising an...

Morphological modelling of strongly curved islands

Land reclamations and island coasts often involve strongly curved shorelines, which are challenging to be properly modeled by numerical morphological models. Evaluation of the long term development of these types of coasts as well as their response to storm conditions requires proper representation of the governing physical processes. Not all...

Rip current observations at Egmond aan Zee

Measuring and modeling coastal dune development in the Netherlands