Nonlinear infragravity–wave interactions on a gently sloping laboratory beach

A high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral analysis to identify the dominant, nonlinear interactions and estimate energy transfers to investigate energy flows within the...

Atmospheric gravity waves due to the Tohoku-Oki tsunami observed in the thermosphere by GOCE

Oceanic tsunami waves couple with atmospheric gravity waves, as previously observed through ionospheric and airglow perturbations. Aerodynamic velocities and density variations are computed from Gravity Field and Steady-State Ocean Circulation Explorer (GOCE) accelerometer and thruster data during Tohoku-Oki tsunami propagation. High-frequency...

The Evolution of Inhomogeneous Wave Statistics through a Variable Medium

The interaction of ocean waves with variable currents and topography in coastal areas can result in inhomogeneous statistics because of coherent interferences, which affect wave-driven circulation and transport processes. Stochastic wave models, invariably based on some form of the radiative transfer equation (or action balance), do not account...

Numerical Dispersion of Gravity Waves

In this work numerical dispersion relations for atmospheric gravity waves are experimentally analyzed using the anelastic mesoscale model METRAS. The dependency of the group velocity on grid size and advection scheme (central scheme (CDF) and methods based on the essentially non-oscillatory (ENO) method) is presented showing a retardation of the...

Effect of particle inertia and gravity on the turbulence in a suspension

A theoretical model is presented for the effect of particle inertia and gravity on the turbulence in a homogeneous suspension. It is an extension of the one-fluid model developed by L’vov, Ooms, and Pomyalov [Phys. Rev. E 67, 046314 (2003)] , in which the effect of gravity was not considered. In the extended model the particles are assumed to...

On the spatial linear growth of gravity-capillary water waves sheared by a laminar air flow

The initial growth of mechanically generated small amplitude water waves below a laminar air stream was examined numerically and experimentally in order to explore the primary growth mechanism, that is, the interfacial instability of coupled laminar air and water flows. Measurements of the laminar velocity profile in the air over the water...

Orthogonal coordinates for the analysis of long gravity waves near islands

A method is presented for the evaluation of an orthogonal coordinate system of particular use in the study of the diffraction of long gravity waves near islands of irregular shape. The problem involves a conformal mapping of the island onto a coordinate plane in which the island contour is a unit circle. The mapping relation is evaluated by an...