Nearshore circulation

Shelf circulation is driven primarily by wind- and tide-induced forces. It is laterally only weakly constrained so that the geostrophic (Coriolis) acceleration is manifest in the response. Nearshore circulation on the other hand is dominated by wave-induced forces associated with shallow-water. wave breaking and is confined to a relatively...

Set-up due to irregular waves

Energy losses in breaking irregular waves are estimated on the assumption that a wave, while breaking, loses only that portion of its height which would be in excess of the breaker height for the given wave period and the mean local depth. This leads to expressions for the magnitude of the radiation stresses as a function of the distance...