Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low?frequency waves

The growth rate, shoreline reflection, and dissipation of low?frequency waves are investigated using data obtained from physical experiments in the Delft University of Technology research flume and by parameter variation using the numerical model Delft3D?SurfBeat. The growth rate of the shoaling incoming long wave varies with depth with an...

Modified boundary conditions and field equations for a 2D surf beat model

This progress report refers to work done at the Fluid IVlechanics Section within the framework of the Netherlands Centre for Coastal Research (NCK). In the coastal zone the long wave motion may contribute significantly to the morpho-dynamics, due to its strong correlation with the short wave motion by surf beat. Also wave-group induced edge...