Kinematics and Directionality of Waves in the Surf Zone

Realistic modelling of the internal kinematics of wind waves breaking on a beach is of great practical importance, e.g. for the modelling of coastal processes and for the design of coastal structures. A fundarnental aspect in this modelling concerns. the relation between the surface elevation and the internal kinematics. In this respect it...

Wave Kinematics and Directionality in the Surf Zone