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The Existence and Origin of Multiple Equilibria in Sand-Mud Sediment Beds

Colina Alonso, A. (author), van Maren, D.S. (author), Herman, P.M.J. (author), van Weerdenburg, R.J.A. (author), Huismans, Y. (author), Holthuijsen, S. J. (author), Govers, L. L. (author), Bijleveld, A. I. (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author)

The sediment composition of the seabed governs its mobility, hence determining sediment transport and morphological evolution of estuaries and tidal basins. Bed sediments often consist of mixtures of sand and mud, with spatial gradients in the sand/mud content. This study aims at increasing the understanding of processes driving the sediment...

journal article 2022

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The contribution of sand and mud to infilling of tidal basins in response to a closure dam

Colina Alonso, A. (author), van Maren, D.S. (author), Elias, E. P.L. (author), Holthuijsen, S. J. (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author)

Human interventions and climate change can heavily influence the large-scale morphological development of tidal basins. This has implications on sediment management strategies, as well as ecological and recreational purposes. Examples of heavily impacted tidal basins are those in the Western Dutch Wadden Sea. The closure of a large sub-basin...

journal article 2021

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Alternative Source Terms for SWAN in the Coastal Region

Salmon, J.E. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)

This paper presents the application of new source terms in SWAN for the dominant water wave physics in the coastal zone: depth-induced breaking and triad wave-wave interactions. We present results demonstrating increased modelling skill in the prediction of bulk wave parameters e.g. significant wave height and of the spectral shape compared to...

conference paper 2014

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Swan and its recent developments (poster)

Zijlema, M. (author), Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Salmon, J.E. (author), Smit, P.B. (author)

The SWAN model is a third-generation spectral wave prediction model developed by Delft University of Technology. Since its initial release in 1998 this model has become a widely used and reliable tool for offshore and near shore wave predictions. Its main field of application is the coastal zone where, by virtue of its implicit numerical scheme,...

conference paper 2013

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Hindcast and validation of Hurricane Ike (2008) waves, forerunner, and storm surge

Hope, M.E. (author), Westerink, J.J. (author), Kennedy, A.B. (author), Kerr, P.C. (author), Dietrich, J.C. (author), Dawson, C. (author), Bender, C.J. (author), Smith, J.M. (author), Jensen, R.E. (author), Zijlema, M. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Luettich, R.A. (author), Powell, M.D. (author), Cardone, V.J. (author), Cox, A.T. (author), Pourtaheri, H. (author), Roberts, H.J. (author), Atkinson, J.H. (author), Tanaka, S. (author), Westerink, H.J. (author), Westerink, L.G. (author)

Hurricane Ike (2008) made landfall near Galveston, Texas, as a moderate intensity storm. Its large wind field in conjunction with the Louisiana-Texas coastline's broad shelf and large scale concave geometry generated waves and surge that impacted over 1000 km of coastline. Ike's complex and varied wave and surge response physics included: the...

journal article 2013

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Wind and waves in extreme hurricanes

Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Powell, M.D. (author), Pietrzak, J.D. (author)

Waves breaking at the ocean surface are important to the dynamical, chemical and biological processes at the air-sea interface. The traditional view is that the white capping and aero-dynamical surface roughness increase with wind speed up to a limiting value. This view is fundamental to hurricane forecasting and climate research but it has...

journal article 2012

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Short?term statistics of waves observed in deep water

Casas-Prat, M. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author)

The short?term statistics of 10 million individual waves observed with buoys in deep water have been investigated, corrected for a sample?rate bias, and normalized with the standard deviation of the surface elevation (the range of normalized wave heights is 0 < H < 10). The observed normalized trough depths are found to be Rayleigh distributed...

journal article 2010

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Holthuijsen, L.H. (author)

book 2007

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Waves in oceanic and coastal waters: Observation techniques

Holthuijsen, L.H. (author)

Emergency Notes CT5316: These notes have been taken from a draft manuscript “Waves in oceanic and coastal waters” by L.H. Holthuijsen to be published separately.

lecture notes 2004

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The Continued Development of the Third-generation Shallow Water Wave Model "SWAN"

Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Booij, N. (author), Haagsma, Y.G. (author), Kieftenburg, A.T.M.M. (author), Kriezi, E. (author)

This report briefly describes the development of the SWAN model compared to the previous authorized version, SWAN 40.01. The most recent version of SWAN, SWAN 40.11 Cycle III was released on the 26th of October 2000.

report 2001

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Effects of low-frequency waves on wave growth in SWAN: Validation and verification of an extended whitecapping formulation

Ris, R.C. (author), Cecchi, E. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Booij, N. (author)

report 1999

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Spectra in an estuary during a superstorm

Booij, N. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Ris, R.C. (author), Vledder, G.P. van (author)

report 1996

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The maximum significant wave height in the Southern North Sea

Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Eldeberky, Y. (author), Booij, N. (author), Ferier, P. (author)

The maximum possible wave conditions along the Dutch coast, which seem to be dominated by the limited water depth, have been estimated in the present study with numerical simulations. Discussions with meteorologists suggest that the maximum possible sustained wind speed in North Sea conditions is between 40 and 50 m/s (roughly equal to the wind...

report 1995

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Transfer of ocean modelling capability to two scientists of the National Institute of Oceanography of India

Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Booij, N. (author)

Two scientists from the National Institute of Oceanography of India have been trained to use the storm surge model DUCHESS and the wave model DOLPHIN. The results are published separately in two reports. This is the first of them.

report 1985

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The shallow water wave hindcast model: HISWA Part IV: system documentation

Booij, N. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author)

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottomtopography, current and wind data. This part IV contains the system documentation of the HISWA model.

report 1985

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The shallow water wave hindcast model: HISWA Part II: test cases

Booij, N. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author)

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottomtopography, current and wind data. Computational results of the HISWA model with default parameter values are compared with field observations in the Haringvliet and over the Galgenplaat. The results indicate that some...

report 1985

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The shallow water wave hindcast model: HISWA Part III: user manual

Booij, N. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author)

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottomtopography, current and wind data. This part III contains the user manual of the HISWA model.

report 1985

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Implementation (II) of the numerical shallow water wave hindcast model HISWA

Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Booij, N. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author)

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottomtopography, current and wind data. Diffraction-like propagation has been implemented and tested. Tests indicate that this type of propagation cannot.be used for most applications. Wave growth and decay has been...

report 1984

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The design of a numerical shallow water wave hindcast model

Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Booij, N. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author)

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottom topography, current- and wind data. HISWA is a directionally decoupled parametric wave hindcast model containing bottom- and current refraction, diffraction, wave growth and dissipation. The design for this hindcast...

report 1984

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Selection and formulation of a numerical shallow water wave hindcast model

Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Booij, N. (author)

Formulate a numerical wave hindcast model which can be used to obtain realistic estimates of wave conditions in the Oosterschelde as input to a numerical geomorphological model. A directionally decoupled, parametric wave hindeast model is recommended that includes parameterized versions of conventional bottom- and current refraction, some degree...

report 1983