Nearshore circulation

Shelf circulation is driven primarily by wind- and tide-induced forces. It is laterally only weakly constrained so that the geostrophic (Coriolis) acceleration is manifest in the response. Nearshore circulation on the other hand is dominated by wave-induced forces associated with shallow-water. wave breaking and is confined to a relatively...

Numerical Simulations of Effects of the Layout of Permeable Pile Groin Systems on Longshore Currents

Coastal permeable groins have been used to protect beaches from erosion for centuries. However, the hydraulic functioning of permeable groins has not been fully understood and their design heavily depends on engineering experiences. In this study, numerical experiments were executed to investigate the effects of layout configurations of a...

Laboratory validation of SWASH longshore current modelling

In this paper, the ability of the numerical phase resolving model SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) to hindcast wave-induced longshore currents is evaluated. Using default settings for all processes modelled, highly accurate results are found for wave heights, mean water levels and longshore currents. While wave current interaction is...