Sea Waves on Deep Water

Analysis of sea states in deep water. - Discussed will be the difficulties of an analytical solution for the wave period and the wave height probability - The closed solution for the wave height probability in the limit of the band-width approaching zero - The closed solution for the wave height probability in the limit H/sqrt(m0)->inf. - The...

Hydrodynamics of the Surf Zone

Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline. When waves break on a gently sloping beach, large amounts of energy are released and turned into turbulence. As the waves keep breaking and interacting with...

Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

The propagation of waves from offshore to onshore is a difficult problem due to the mathematical complexities of the governing equations and the degree of uncertainty of the bathymetry over which the waves must travel. In this lecture, the various methods of transforming offshore wave trains to shallow water are discussed. First, single wave...

Mechanics of Sediment Transport by the Combination of Waves and Current

The motivation to develop a transport formulation for the combination of waves and current has been the necessity to model longshore transport passing tidal in- and outlets. The generally applied C.E.R.C. formula for the longshore transport is not applicable here because that formula relates the longshore transport to the longshore current...