Stochastic modeling of coherent wave fields over variable depth

Refractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. Quasi-coherent statistical theory does account for such statistical interferences and the associated wave inhomogeneities, but...

Evolution of ocean wave statistics in shallow water: Refraction and diffraction over seafloor topography

We present a stochastic model for the evolution of random ocean surface waves in coastal waters with complex seafloor topography. First, we derive a deterministic coupled-mode model based on a forward scattering approximation of the nonlinear mild slope equation; this model describes the evolution of random, directionally spread waves over fully...

Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity waves over two-dimensional topography