Sand transport in oscillatory sheet-flow; a literature review

This literature review is part of the ongoing research on sand transport in oscillatory sheet-flow, as taking place at the coast during storms. Because sheet-flow corresponds to conditions of high shear stress, large amounts of sand are transported. Therefore it is an important part of the total sand transport (sheet-flow and suspended load)....

Liquefaction and erosion of mud due to waves and current: Experiments on Westwald Clay

A research project was carried out at the Delft University of Technology in order to study the interaction between waves as weil as a current and a muddy bed. For this purpose several experiments were made on two artificial clays, namely China Clay and Westwald Clay. The results of the experiments on China Clay were reported by De Wit (1994). In...

Technical note for sediment transport rate: Analysis of delta flume data and calculations

Data analysis of Delta flume observations and calculationsThe objective of the present study is to analyse the measurement data of profiles and velocity moments, to derive the measured cross-shore sediment transport rates from the profile records and to compare the observed transport rates with the results from several existing prediction models...

Liquefaction and erosion of mud due to waves and current: Experiments on China Clay

A research project was started at the Delft University of Technology in order to study the interaction between waves as well as a current and a muddy bed. For this purpose several experiments were made on artificial clays. In the present report only flume experiments on China Clay are discussed. In the experiments made special attention was paid...

A new method for the generation of second-order random waves

For the generation of second-order random waves in a flume the control signal for the wave board has to be correct up to second order. An expression for this control signal is derived with the perturbation method of multiple scales. It is much less complex and requires less computation time than the expressions obtained from the full second...

Directional spreading in surfbeat: A first assessment

In the following we consider the forcing of long waves by normally or obliquely incident grouped short waves, also known as surf beat. Two mechanisms responsible for the generation of long waves are considered: the release of the bound long waves associated with changes in the spatial variation of the incident short wave energy [Longuet-Higgins...

Probabilistic approach on course material transport under waves: Vol. 1 Theory and experiment.

The probabilistic design method of a cover layer of pipe line under the horizontal bottom is described. By assuming that the water velocity at the bottom is Rayleigh distributed, probability of bottom shear stress was derived. With a combination of the probability function of bottom shear and a simple sediment transport formula given by Madsen...

Probabilistic aspects of ocean waves

Background material for a special lecture on probabilistic aspects of ocean waves for a seminar in Trondheim. It describes long term statistics and short term statistics. Statistical distributions of waves, directional spectra and frequency spectra. Sea state parameters, response peaks, encounter probability.

Characteristics of flow in run-up of periodic waves

The run-up of waves is an important factor in the design of shore structures. It has been investigated in many studies, both theoretical and experimental. The experimental studies have mostly been confined to the maximum run-up (the greatest height above still water level, reached by the periodic waves on the slope). A simple and reliable...

Manuscripten van H.J. Schoemaker uit de periode 1946-1971: Deel D: Golven van het wateroppervlak

D1: Golven van het wateroppervlak, grondformules in eerste benadering (1956) D2: Golfvervorming door wind; overzicht van de ontwikkelingen tot 1955 (1955) D3: Second-order effects in progressinve surface waves (1961) D4: Golven in stromend water (1960) D5: Diffractie (1950) D6: Investigations of the reflection of waves (1949)

Facts and figures pertaining to the bivariate Rayleigh distribution

There is some evidence that the heights and the periods squared of wind waves each are Rayleigh- distributed. If this is the case, it may be surmised that their joint distribution is also of the Rayleigh type. The bivariate Rayleigh distribution, which is known in the field of statistical communications theory, may thus be applicable to wind...