Optimising the wave attenuation of bamboo fences using the numerical wave model SWASH

The coastline of Demak, Indonesia, has been eroding during the<br/>last 15 years. Coastal retreat in Demak is caused by a combination<br/>of mangrove deforestation and local subsidence due to groundwater<br/>extraction in the nearby city of Semarang. To restore the lost mangrove<br/>forest, permeable dams, consisting of bamboo poles with a<br/...

Including the effect of depth-uniform ambient currents on waves in a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model

Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straightforward as it requires appropriate boundary conditions in combination with a large domain size and long...

Efficient non-hydrostatic modelling of 3D wave-induced currents using a subgrid approach

Wave-induced currents are an ubiquitous feature in coastal waters that can spread material over the surf zone and the inner shelf. These currents are typically under resolved in non-hydrostatic wave-flow models due to computational constraints. Specifically, the low vertical resolutions adequate to describe the wave dynamics – and required to...