Spectral evolution in waves traveling over a shoal

Nonlinear aspects of breaking and non-breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar have been investigated by laboratory experiments, with special emphasis on the generation of high-frequency energy. Data collected from the measurements are used for computing spectral and bispectral estimates in order to assess the contribution of...

Probabilistic aspects of ocean waves

Background material for a special lecture on probabilistic aspects of ocean waves for a seminar in Trondheim. It describes long term statistics and short term statistics. Statistical distributions of waves, directional spectra and frequency spectra. Sea state parameters, response peaks, encounter probability.

Characteristics of flow in run-up of periodic waves

The run-up of waves is an important factor in the design of shore structures. It has been investigated in many studies, both theoretical and experimental. The experimental studies have mostly been confined to the maximum run-up (the greatest height above still water level, reached by the periodic waves on the slope). A simple and reliable...

Symposium "Research on wave action": Proceedings, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands, July 1969

Contains papers and discussions of the symposium: de Jong, J. - New wind waves flumes; Wiegel, R.L. - Waves and their effects on pile-supported structures; Svasek, J.N. - Statistical evaluation of wave conditions in deltaic areas; d'Angremond, K. and Van Oorschot, J.H. - Generation of irregular waves on model scales; Rogan, A.N. - A comparison...

Statistical evaluation of wave conditions in a deltaic area

Coastal encineering problems concerning wind waves and~ell can be solved with the aid of hydraulic or mathematical models, The irregular wave field i.e. the state of the sea surface can be described in a sufficient way for engineering problems either by parameters such as significant wave height and mean wave period, or in the form of power...

Report on discussions during the symposium

List of Contents and discussions of the symposium "research on wave action".

Facts and figures pertaining to the bivariate Rayleigh distribution

There is some evidence that the heights and the periods squared of wind waves each are Rayleigh- distributed. If this is the case, it may be surmised that their joint distribution is also of the Rayleigh type. The bivariate Rayleigh distribution, which is known in the field of statistical communications theory, may thus be applicable to wind...