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Battjes, J.A. (author), Roos, A. (author)The run-up of waves is an important factor in the design of shore structures. It has been investigated in many studies, both theoretical and experimental. The experimental studies have mostly been confined to the maximum run-up (the greatest height above still water level, reached by the periodic waves on the slope). A simple and reliable...report 1975
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- Letcher, John S. (author) conference paper 1977
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- Dingemans, M.W. (author) report 1977
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Battjes, J.A. (author)Background material for a special lecture on probabilistic aspects of ocean waves for a seminar in Trondheim. It describes long term statistics and short term statistics. Statistical distributions of waves, directional spectra and frequency spectra. Sea state parameters, response peaks, encounter probability.report 1977
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Herbich, J.B. (author), Brahme, S.B. (author)Maximum bottom velocities caused by waves were calculated using digital computers. Four wave theories, Airy, Stokes third order, Cnoidal and Solitary,were applied in the computation. Results of the study were tabulated and presented graphically to highlight the importance of various parameters affecting the maximum bottom velocity. It is...report 1977
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- Schmitke, Rodney T. (author) report 1978
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- Vis, F.C. (author) report 1980
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Van Hijum, E. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)Het doel van het onderzoek is om te komen tot een inventarisatie van literatuur met betrekking tot snelheidvelden in golven. Aan de hand van deze inventarisatie kan in een later stadium inzicht worden verkregen in de toepasbaarheid van bestaande golftheorieen of worden overgegaan tot de opzet van een beschrijvend model van het snelheidsveld...report 1980
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Gerritsen, F. (author)This study deals with the breaking of waves on coastal reefs, with special emphasis on energy dissipation (wave height attenuation), wave spectrum modification and the characteristics of wave set-up. It has an engineering perspective; its main objective is to provide the practicing engineer with much needed information on the design conditions...report 1981
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Booij, N. (author)A mathematical model for the combined refraction-diffraction of linear periodic gravity waves on water is developed, in which the influence of inhomogeneities of depth and current is taken into account. The model is used to compute partial reflection of waves a gully or an undersea slope, with influence of a current. The model is also applied to...doctoral thesis 1981
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Katsui, H. (author)The probabilistic design method of a cover layer of pipe line under the horizontal bottom is described. By assuming that the water velocity at the bottom is Rayleigh distributed, probability of bottom shear stress was derived. With a combination of the probability function of bottom shear and a simple sediment transport formula given by Madsen...report 1982
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- Scragg, Carl Alden (author), Chance, Britton (author), Talcott, John C. (author), Wyatt, Donald C. (author) journal article 1987
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- Scragg, Carl Alden (author), Chance, Britton (author), Talcott, John C. (author), Wyatt, Donald C. (author) journal article 1987
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Klopman, G. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)As an alternative to a more or less standard derivation procedure for design wave heights in relatively shallow water, two improvements of the procedure are suggested which lead to less conservative results. These improvements are based on observations of shallow water effects on both the decay of total wave energy density and on the extreme...conference paper 1989
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- Abbot, Michael B. (author), Madsen, Per A. (author) book 1990
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Reniers, A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author)In the following we consider the forcing of long waves by normally or obliquely incident grouped short waves, also known as surf beat. Two mechanisms responsible for the generation of long waves are considered: the release of the bound long waves associated with changes in the spatial variation of the incident short wave energy [Longuet-Higgins...report 1990
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Peregrine, D.H. (author)The aim of this workshop was to take advantage of the recent freedom available to scientists in the Soviet Union (now Commonwealth of Independent States) to travel to the West in order to develop both contacts and an awareness of current research between research workers from East and West, most of whom have formerly had little contact. We...report 1991
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Beji, S. (author)Nonlinear aspects of breaking and non-breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar have been investigated by laboratory experiments, with special emphasis on the generation of high-frequency energy. Data collected from the measurements are used for computing spectral and bispectral estimates in order to assess the contribution of...conference paper 1991
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Van Leeuwen, P.J. (author), Klopman, G. (author)For the generation of second-order random waves in a flume the control signal for the wave board has to be correct up to second order. An expression for this control signal is derived with the perturbation method of multiple scales. It is much less complex and requires less computation time than the expressions obtained from the full second...report 1991
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- Dallinga, Reint P. (author), Hubregtse, Arne H. (author), Siregar, F.R.T. (author), Rustenburg, A. (author) conference paper 1992