Numerical Simulations of Effects of the Layout of Permeable Pile Groin Systems on Longshore Currents

Coastal permeable groins have been used to protect beaches from erosion for centuries. However, the hydraulic functioning of permeable groins has not been fully understood and their design heavily depends on engineering experiences. In this study, numerical experiments were executed to investigate the effects of layout configurations of a...

Laboratory validation of SWASH longshore current modelling

In this paper, the ability of the numerical phase resolving model SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) to hindcast wave-induced longshore currents is evaluated. Using default settings for all processes modelled, highly accurate results are found for wave heights, mean water levels and longshore currents. While wave current interaction is...

Nonlinear Evolution of Shear Instabilities of the Longshore Current

Surface gravity waves breaking in the nearshore region force a longshore surf zone current. This current can be unstable to longshore periodic perturbations. The continuity and momentum conservation equations averaged over the short wave time scales and over depth present a suitable basis for the modeling of these motions. The governing...

Nearshore circulation

Shelf circulation is driven primarily by wind- and tide-induced forces. It is laterally only weakly constrained so that the geostrophic (Coriolis) acceleration is manifest in the response. Nearshore circulation on the other hand is dominated by wave-induced forces associated with shallow-water. wave breaking and is confined to a relatively...

Analyse brandingsstroommetingen nabij Joossesweg (Westkapelle)

In de periode maart tot april 1985 heeft de Adviesdienst Vlissingen enige brandingsstroommetingen uitgevoerd voor de kust van Walcheren ter hoogte van Joossesweg (nabij Westkapelle). Het doel van het meetonderzoek is het verkrijgen van meer inzicht in de veranderingen die optreden op een gesuppleerd strand ten gevolge van stroom en golven. Met...

A mathematical model of uniform longshore currents and the comparison with laboratory data

This report describes a mathematical model for uniform longshore currents and laboratory experiments on these currents, as also the comparison of theory and experiment. The longshore driving force is modeled taking into account the physical fact that dissipation of wave energy takes place shoreward of the plunge instead of in the whole surf zone...

The proper longshore current in a wave basin

This report describes the investigation into a method how to obtain the proper longshore current in a wave basin. In this method the basin geometry is optimized and the proper recirculation flow through openings in the wave guides is determined by minimizing the circulation flow between the wave guides. Using different wave fields, two beach...

Set-up due to irregular waves

Energy losses in breaking irregular waves are estimated on the assumption that a wave, while breaking, loses only that portion of its height which would be in excess of the breaker height for the given wave period and the mean local depth. This leads to expressions for the magnitude of the radiation stresses as a function of the distance...

Littoral drift computations on mutual wave and current influence

11th Conference on Coastal Engineering in London 1968, the author presented a method for computing the littoral drift starting from the longshore current velocity as this is generated by the waves and with the assumption that the material is stirred up by the waves. In this paper measurements in a model basin are described by which the procedure...

Growth of longshore currents downstream of a surf-zone barrier

Momentum flux considerations are used to formulate a differential equation governing the growth, with distance, of the mean longshore current velocity in the surf-zone on a plane, impermeable beach due to monochromatic waves. The equation is solved for the flow situation downstream of a surf-zone barrier and is shown to compare favorably with...

Experimental study of longshore currents on a plane beach

Measurements are made of the characteristics of breaking waves and the resulting longshore currents for 34 combinations of wave height (up to 0.22 feet), period (0.90 to 1.50 seconds), and breaker angle (up to 320), along a 20 foot test section of a 30 foot plane, smooth concrete beach with a 0.104 slope. Techniques are developed to measure the...