Statistical wave properties in shallow water using cnoidal theory

Various properties of wind-generated waves in coastal regions are significantly different from those in deep water regions. The differences are largely due to the influence of bathymetry, which is more pronounced in shallower water. In general, deep water waves are considered a Gaussian random process with only minor discrepancies between the...

Assessment of wave overtopping based on numerical modelling and historic events for an early warning system

Low-lying coastal areas can be very vulnerable to extreme storms inducing overtopping and flood events with severe socioeconomic consequences. Also, the associated risk is expected to increase due to sea level rise and coastal population growth. Under this threat, early warning systems (EWS) are a crucial tool for coastal planning and management...