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Reniers, A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author)In the following we consider the forcing of long waves by normally or obliquely incident grouped short waves, also known as surf beat. Two mechanisms responsible for the generation of long waves are considered: the release of the bound long waves associated with changes in the spatial variation of the incident short wave energy [Longuet-Higgins...report 1990
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Klopman, G. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)As an alternative to a more or less standard derivation procedure for design wave heights in relatively shallow water, two improvements of the procedure are suggested which lead to less conservative results. These improvements are based on observations of shallow water effects on both the decay of total wave energy density and on the extreme...conference paper 1989
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- Scragg, Carl Alden (author), Chance, Britton (author), Talcott, John C. (author), Wyatt, Donald C. (author) journal article 1987
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- Scragg, Carl Alden (author), Chance, Britton (author), Talcott, John C. (author), Wyatt, Donald C. (author) journal article 1987
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Katsui, H. (author)The probabilistic design method of a cover layer of pipe line under the horizontal bottom is described. By assuming that the water velocity at the bottom is Rayleigh distributed, probability of bottom shear stress was derived. With a combination of the probability function of bottom shear and a simple sediment transport formula given by Madsen...report 1982
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Booij, N. (author)A mathematical model for the combined refraction-diffraction of linear periodic gravity waves on water is developed, in which the influence of inhomogeneities of depth and current is taken into account. The model is used to compute partial reflection of waves a gully or an undersea slope, with influence of a current. The model is also applied to...doctoral thesis 1981
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Gerritsen, F. (author)This study deals with the breaking of waves on coastal reefs, with special emphasis on energy dissipation (wave height attenuation), wave spectrum modification and the characteristics of wave set-up. It has an engineering perspective; its main objective is to provide the practicing engineer with much needed information on the design conditions...report 1981
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Van Hijum, E. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)Het doel van het onderzoek is om te komen tot een inventarisatie van literatuur met betrekking tot snelheidvelden in golven. Aan de hand van deze inventarisatie kan in een later stadium inzicht worden verkregen in de toepasbaarheid van bestaande golftheorieen of worden overgegaan tot de opzet van een beschrijvend model van het snelheidsveld...report 1980
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- Vis, F.C. (author) report 1980
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- Schmitke, Rodney T. (author) report 1978
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Herbich, J.B. (author), Brahme, S.B. (author)Maximum bottom velocities caused by waves were calculated using digital computers. Four wave theories, Airy, Stokes third order, Cnoidal and Solitary,were applied in the computation. Results of the study were tabulated and presented graphically to highlight the importance of various parameters affecting the maximum bottom velocity. It is...report 1977
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Battjes, J.A. (author)Background material for a special lecture on probabilistic aspects of ocean waves for a seminar in Trondheim. It describes long term statistics and short term statistics. Statistical distributions of waves, directional spectra and frequency spectra. Sea state parameters, response peaks, encounter probability.report 1977
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- Dingemans, M.W. (author) report 1977
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- Letcher, John S. (author) conference paper 1977
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Roos, A. (author)The run-up of waves is an important factor in the design of shore structures. It has been investigated in many studies, both theoretical and experimental. The experimental studies have mostly been confined to the maximum run-up (the greatest height above still water level, reached by the periodic waves on the slope). A simple and reliable...report 1975
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Dean, R.W. (author)Table for wave computations.report 1974
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Hasselmann, K. (author), Barnett, T.P. (author), Bouws, E. (author), Carlson, H. (author), Cartwright, D.E. (author), Enke, K. (author), Ewing, J.A. (author), Gienapp, H. (author), Hasselmann, D.E. (author), Kruseman, P. (author), Meerburg, A. (author), Müller, P. (author), Olbers, D.J. (author), Richter, K. (author), Sell, W. (author), Walden, H. (author)"Wave spectra were measured along a profile extending 160 kilometers into the North Sea westward from Sylt for a period often weeks in 1968 and 1969. During the main experiment in July 1969, thirteen wave stations were in operation, of which six stations continued measurements into the first two weeks of August. A smaller pilot experiment was...report 1973
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Dean, R.G. (author)Volume I of this report presents the results of a research program to evaluate and develop water wave theories for engineering application. A second volume of this report presents wave tables developed for preliminary design in offshore problems. Volume I describes: (1) an evaluation of the degree to which various available wave theories satisfy...report 1972
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Schoemaker, H.J. (author)D1: Golven van het wateroppervlak, grondformules in eerste benadering (1956) D2: Golfvervorming door wind; overzicht van de ontwikkelingen tot 1955 (1955) D3: Second-order effects in progressinve surface waves (1961) D4: Golven in stromend water (1960) D5: Diffractie (1950) D6: Investigations of the reflection of waves (1949)report 1971
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- Wahab, Rama (author), Pritchett, Clarck (author), Ruth, Lawrence C. (author) journal article 1971