An analysis of longshore currents and associated sediment transport in the surf zone

Two momentum based longshore current models and a preliminary longshore sediment transport model are derived, calibrated and tested in the present investigation. The Linear Longshore Current Model predicts the relatively small longshore current induced by monochromatic, two dimensional, gravity waves of finite height and near normal incidence...

Reflection and Transmission Characteristics of Porous Rubble-Mound Breakwaters

This report presents the results of a study of the reflection and transmission characteristics of porous rubble-mound breakwaters. An attempt was made at making the procedures entirely self-contained by introducing empirical relationships for the hydraulic characteristics of the porous material and by establishing experimentally an empirical...