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Pearson, S.G. (author), Storlazzi, C.D. (author), van Dongeren, A. R. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Many low-elevation, coral reef-lined, tropical coasts are vulnerable to the effects of climate change, sea level rise, and wave-induced flooding. The considerable morphological diversity of these coasts and the variability of the hydrodynamic forcing that they are exposed to make predicting wave-induced flooding a challenge. A process-based...journal article 2017
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Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Dekkers, Jochem (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), van Dongeren, Ap (author)Several studies have reported the development of undular bores over fringing coral reefs (e.g, Gallagher, 1976; Nwogu and Demirbilek, 2010) but the importance of this phenomenon for reef hydrodynamics has never been studied. Yet, the transformation of a long wave (e.g., swell or infragravity wave) into an undular bore leads to significant...conference paper 2018
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- Pearson, S.G. (author), van Prooijen, Bram (author), Poleykett, Jack (author), Wright, Matthew (author), Black, Kevin (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author) poster 2018
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Pearson, S.G. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author)The curious undular bore<br/>Propagates onward to shore<br/>The energy flies<br/>From low freqs to high<br/>Until the wavefront is no moreposter 2018
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Rueda, Ana (author), Cagigal, Laura (author), Anderson, Dylan (author), Storlazzi, Curt (author), van Dongeren, Ap (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Marra, John (author), Ruggiero, Peter (author), Mendez, Fernando J. (author)The assessment of coastal flood risk on a reef-lined coastline presents several challenges. From the probabilistic side, we need to consider all possible events that could occur in the system, taking into account the different contributions of waves, storm surges, and tides that contribute to the total water level. To estimate reliable flood...conference paper 2019
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Pearson, S.G. (author), van Prooijen, Bram (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Meijer-Holzhauer, H. (author), de Looff, A.P. (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author)Sustainable management of barrier islands and tidal inlet systems requires a knowledge of sediment transport pathways throughout the system. This paper places in situ suspended sediment observations (obtained using a LISST) in context with seabed sediment samples and hydrodynamic measurements to identify such pathways. The results indicate two...conference paper 2019
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Brakenhof, L.B. (author), van der Vegt, M. (author), Mol, J. (author), van Prooijen, Bram (author)A combination of observations and modeling of wave-and current-related sediment transport at the ebb-tidal delta of Ameland, The Netherlands, has been used to examine the dominant sediment transport contributions shaping the ebb-tidal delta. The calibrated model shows a good comparison with the observations for a range of conditions. The results...conference paper 2019
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Giardino, Alessio (author), Diamantidou, Eleni (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Santinelli, Giorgio (author), den Heijer, C. (author)This paper presents an application of the Bayesian belief network for coastal erosion management at the regional scale. A "Bayesian erosion management network" (BERM-N) is developed and trained based on yearly cross-shore profile data available along the Holland coast. Profiles collected for over 50 years and at 604 locations were combined...journal article 2019
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Rueda, Ana (author), Cagigal, Laura (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Antolínez, Jose A.A. (author), Storlazzi, Curt (author), van Dongeren, Ap (author), Camus, Paula (author), Mendez, Fernando J. (author)Wave-induced flooding is a major coastal hazard on tropical islands fronted by coral reefs. The variability of shape, size, and physical characteristics of the reefs across the globe make it difficult to obtain a parameterization of wave run-up, which is needed for risk assessments. Therefore, we developed the HyCReWW metamodel to predict wave...journal article 2019
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Elias, Edwin P.L. (author), van der Spek, A.J.F. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Cleveringa, Jelmer (author)Ameland inlet is centrally located in the chain of West Frisian Islands (the Netherlands). A globally unique dataset of detailed bathymetric charts starting in the early 19th century, and high-resolution digital data since 1986 allows for detailed investigations of the ebb-tidal delta morphodynamics and sediment bypassing over a wide range of...journal article 2019
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van Prooijen, Bram (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Holzhauer, H. (author), Gawehn, M.A. (author), Antolínez, José A. Á. (author), de Vet, P.L.M. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author), den Heijer, C. (author), Wilmink, R.J.A. (author)A large-scale field campaign was carried out on the ebb-tidal delta (ETD) of Ameland Inlet, a basin of the Wadden Sea in the Netherlands, as well as on three transects along the Dutch lower shoreface. The data have been obtained over the years 2017-2018. The most intensive campaign at the ETD of Ameland Inlet was in September 2017. With this...journal article 2020
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Lasserre, Camila Gaido (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author)Waves are important drivers for reef hydrodynamics, and therefore strongly contribute to flooding over reef-lined coasts. While high-frequency waves are largely dissipated when they propagate over the reef flat due to breaking and friction, low-frequency (LF) waves are generally able to reach the back-reef beach. There, they can reflect and form...conference paper 2020
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Scott, Fred (author), Antolinez, Jose A.A. (author), McCall, Robert (author), Storlazzi, Curt (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)Many coral reef-lined coasts are low-lying with elevations <4 m above mean sea level. Climate-change-driven sea-level rise, coral reef degradation, and changes in storm wave climate will lead to greater occurrence and impacts of wave-driven flooding. This poses a significant threat to their coastal communities. While greatly at risk, the...journal article 2020
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Parodi, Matteo U. (author), Giardino, Alessio (author), Van Dongeren, Ap (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Considering the likely increase in coastal flooding in small island developing states (SIDSs) due to climate change, coastal managers at the local and global levels have been developing initiatives aimed at implementing disaster risk reduction (DRR) and adaptation measures. Developing science-based adaptation policies requires accurate...journal article 2020
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Pearson, S.G. (author), van Prooijen, Bram (author), Elias, Edwin P.L. (author), Vitousek, Sean (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author)Connectivity provides a framework for analyzing coastal sediment transport pathways, building on conceptual advances in graph theory from other scientific disciplines. Connectivity schematizes sediment pathways as a directed graph (i.e., a set of nodes and links). This study presents a novel application of graph theory and connectivity...journal article 2020
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Pearson, S.G. (author), Elias, E.P.L. (author), van Ormondt, M (author), Roelvink, F.E. (author), Lambregts, P.M. (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author), van Prooijen, Bram (author)Estuaries and coasts can be conceptualized as connected networks of water and sediment fluxes. These dynamic geomorphic systems are governed by waves, tides, wind, and river input, and evolve according to complex nonlinear transport processes. To predict their evolution, we need to better understand the pathways that sediment takes from source...conference paper 2021
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Roelvink, Floortje E. (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)Coral reefs are effective natural coastal flood barriers that protect adjacent communities. Coral degradation compromises the coastal protection value of reefs while also reducing their other ecosystem services, making them a target for restoration. Here we provide a physics-based evaluation of how coral restoration can reduce coastal flooding...journal article 2021
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Pearson, S.G. (author), Verney, Romaric (author), van Prooijen, Bram (author), Tran, Duc (author), Hendriks, H.C.M. (author), Jacquet, Matthias (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author)Quantifying and characterizing suspended sediment is essential to successful monitoring and management of estuaries and coastal environments. To quantify suspended sediment, optical and acoustic backscatter instruments are often used. Optical backscatter systems are more sensitive to mud particles (<63 μm) and flocs, whereas acoustic...journal article 2021
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Pearson, S.G. (author), van Prooijen, Bram (author), Poleykett, Jack (author), Wright, Matthew (author), Black, Kevin (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author)Sediment tracer studies use uniquely identifiable particles to track the pathways and fate of individual sand or silt grains in marine environments. These techniques are best applied to assess connectivity between potential sediment sources and sinks, such as between a sand nourishment and an ecologically sensitive area. Significant challenges...journal article 2021
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van Weerdenburg, R.J.A. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), van Prooijen, Bram (author), Laan, Stendert (author), Elias, Edwin (author), Tonnon, Pieter Koen (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author)Multiple tidal inlet systems like the Wadden Sea have long been considered as separated basins, bordered by so-called tidal divides. Recently, it was however shown that fluxes of water and sediment occur over the borders of these basins, especially during wind events. In this paper, the wind-driven fluxes over these borders and the residual...journal article 2021
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