A semi-empirical model of a tidal inlet system

Only in the last 25 years have coastal engineers begun to come to an understanding of the physical processes in and around tidal inlet systems. This lack of knowledge has caused tremendous surprises and problems due to unanticipated reactions of the system to changes caused by human interference. Examples of such interference are: (partial)...

Directional spreading in surfbeat: A first assessment

In the following we consider the forcing of long waves by normally or obliquely incident grouped short waves, also known as surf beat. Two mechanisms responsible for the generation of long waves are considered: the release of the bound long waves associated with changes in the spatial variation of the incident short wave energy [Longuet-Higgins...