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A study of the non-linear properties and wave generation of the multi-layer non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH

Vasarmidis, Panagiotis (author), Klonaris, Georgios (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Stratigaki, Vasiliki (author), Troch, Peter (author)

Despite the increasing use of non-hydrostatic models in the study of wave processes in coastal regions, there is still limited understanding of the non-linear properties of the governing equations and how they improve with increased vertical resolution. In this study, the governing equations of the non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH are...

journal article 2024

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QuadWave1D: An optimized quadratic formulation for spectral prediction of coastal waves

Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)

Spectral information of coastal waves and the associated statistical parameters (e.g., the significant wave height and mean wave period) over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective...

journal article 2024

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The impact of modulational instability on coastal wave forecasting using quadratic models

Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)

Coastal wave forecasting over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective models. A well-known efficient modelling approach is the quadratic approach (often referred to as frequency-domain...

journal article 2024

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Combining numerical tools to determine wave forces on moored ships

Dobrochinski, João P.H. (author), van Deyzen, Alex (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), van der Hout, A.J. (author)

Accurate modelling of waves in harbours and the response of moored ships to that type of forcing is of prime importance to determine the safety and workability of ships moored at berths exposed to local wave conditions. This study investigates the combination of a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model (SWASH) and a 3D boundary-integral diffraction...

journal article 2023

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A mild-slope formulation based on Weyl rule of association with application to coastal wave modelling

Akrish, G. (author), Smit, Pieter (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

Weyl rule of association, proposed by Hermann Weyl for quantum mechanics applications (Weyl, 1931), can be used to associate between the dispersion relation of water waves and a non-local pseudo-differential operator. The central result of this study is that this operator correctly approximates the Dirichlet-to-Neumann operator derived for...

journal article 2023

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Including the effect of depth-uniform ambient currents on waves in a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model

Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), van Rooijen, Arnold (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)

Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straightforward as it requires appropriate boundary conditions in combination with a large domain size and long...

journal article 2023

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On the Efficiency of Staggered C-Grid Discretization for the Inviscid Shallow Water Equations from the Perspective of Nonstandard Calculus

Zijlema, Marcel (author)

This paper provides a rationale for the commonly observed numerical efficiency of staggered C-grid discretizations for solving the inviscid shallow water equations. In particular, using the key concepts of nonstandard calculus, we aim to show that the grid staggering of the primitive variables (surface elevation and normal velocity components)...

journal article 2022

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Corrigendum to “Non-hydrostatic modeling of drag, inertia and porous effects in wave propagation over dense vegetation fields”

Suzuki, T. (author), Hu, Zhan (author), Kumada, Kenji (author), Phan Khanh, L. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)

The authors regret that there was a typo in Equation (14b). 

journal article 2022

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SWAN SurfBeat-1D

Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)

The Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model has been extended with an infragravity module to predict the Wave-Group-Forced (WGF) infragravity response to a frequency-directional sea-swell spectrum at a mildly sloping alongshore uniform beach. To that end the SWAN model has been extended with an WGF-infragravity source term denoted S<sub>sb<...

journal article 2022

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Non-hydrostatic modelling of the wave-induced response of moored floating structures in coastal waters

Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Wolgamot, Hugh (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)

Predictions of the wave-induced response of floating structures that are moored in a harbour or coastal waters require an accurate description of the (nonlinear) evolution of waves over variable bottom topography, the interactions of the waves with the structure, and the dynamics of the mooring system. In this paper, we present a new advanced...

journal article 2022

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Formulation of a Surf-Similarity Parameter to Predict Tsunami Characteristics at the Coast

Roubos, Jochem (author), Glasbergen, Toni (author), Hofland, Bas (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Esteban, Miguel (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author)

To calculate tsunami forces on coastal structures it is of great importance to determine the shape of the tsunami front reaching the coast. Based on literature reviews, analytical reasoning,video footage, and numerical modelling it is concluded that both the continental shelf slope and the bay geometry have a significant influence on the...

journal article 2021

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Physics-Capturing Discretizations for Spectral Wind-Wave Models

Zijlema, Marcel (author)

This paper discusses the discretization methods that have been commonly employed to solve the wave action balance equation, and that have gained a renewed interest with the widespread use of unstructured grids for third-generation spectral wind-wave models. These methods are the first-order upwind finite difference and first-order vertex...

journal article 2021

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On the accuracy of internal wave generation method in a non-hydrostatic wave model to generate and absorb dispersive and directional waves

Vasarmidis, Panagiotis (author), Stratigaki, Vasiliki (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Troch, Peter (author)

The weakly reflective wave generation is a wave generation and absorption method in phase-resolving models, based on the assumption that the waves propagating towards the wave generation boundary are small amplitude shallow water waves with direction perpendicular to the boundary. This assumption makes the method weakly reflective for...

journal article 2021

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Impacts of Tropical Cyclones on the Caribbean Under Future Climate Conditions

Kleptsova, Olga S. (author), Dijkstra, Henk A. (author), van Westen, René M. (author), van der Boog, C.G. (author), Katsman, C.A. (author), James, Rebecca K. (author), Bouma, Tjeerd J. (author), Klees, R. (author), Riva, R.E.M. (author), Slobbe, D.C. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Pietrzak, J.D. (author)

Joint effects of the dynamic sea-level rise projected changes in the large-scale atmosphere/ocean circulation, and wave climate on hurricane-induced extreme water levels in the Caribbean region are assessed. We use the 2D-depth integrated ADCIRC + SWAN wave-ocean model, baroclinically coupled to an ocean-eddying version of the Community Earth...

journal article 2021

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Free Infragravity Waves in the North Sea

Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)

Infragravity waves are low-frequency surface waves that can impact a variety of nearshore and oceanic processes. Recent measurements in the North Sea showed that significant bursts of infragravity energy occurred during storm events. Using a spectral wave model, we show that a substantial part of this energy was radiated from distant...

journal article 2021

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An efficient method to calculate depth-integrated, phase-averaged momentum balances in non-hydrostatic models

da Silva, Renan F. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Lowe, Ryan (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)

Analysis of the mean (wave-averaged) momentum balance is a common approach used to explain the physical forcing driving wave set-up and mean currents in the nearshore zone. Traditionally this approach has been applied to phase-averaged models but has more recently been applied to phase-resolving models using post-processing, whereby model...

journal article 2021

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Modelling statistical wave interferences over shear currents

Akrish, G. (author), Smit, Pieter (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

Wave forecasting in ocean and coastal waters commonly relies on spectral models based on the spectral action balance equation. These models assume that different wave components are statistically independent and as a consequence cannot resolve wave interference due to statistical correlation between crossing waves, as may be found in, for...

journal article 2020

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The potential of coastal ecosystems to mitigate the impact of sea-level rise in shallow tropical bays

Keyzer, L.M. (author), Herman, P.M.J. (author), Smits, B.P. (author), Pietrzak, J.D. (author), James, R.K. (author), Candy, A.S. (author), Riva, R.E.M. (author), Bouma, T.J. (author), van der Boog, C.G. (author), Katsman, C.A. (author), Slobbe, D.C. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), van Westen, R.M. (author), Dijkstra, H.A. (author)

Shallow tropical bays in the Caribbean, like Orient Bay and Galion Bay in Saint Martin, are often sheltered by coral reefs. In the relatively calm environment behind the reefs, seagrass meadows grow. Together, these ecosystems provide valuable ecosystem services like coastal protection, biodiversity hotspots, nursery grounds for animals and...

journal article 2020

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Accuracy aspects of conventional discretization methods for scalar transport with nonzero divergence velocity field arising from the energy balance equation

Zijlema, Marcel (author)

We are concerned with the numerical solution of a linear transport problem with nonzero divergence velocity field that originates from the spectral energy balance equation describing the evolution of wind waves and swells in coastal seas. The discretization error of the commonly used first-order upwind finite difference and first-order vertex...

journal article 2020

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Ocean model resolution dependence of Caribbean sea-level projections

van Westen, René M. (author), Dijkstra, Henk A. (author), van der Boog, C.G. (author), Katsman, C.A. (author), James, Rebecca K. (author), Bouma, T.J. (author), Kleptsova, Olga (author), Klees, R. (author), Riva, R.E.M. (author), Slobbe, D.C. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Pietrzak, J.D. (author)

Sea-level rise poses severe threats to coastal and low-lying regions around the world, by exacerbating coastal erosion and flooding. Adequate sea-level projections over the next decades are important for both decision making and for the development of successful adaptation strategies in these coastal and low-lying regions to climate change....

journal article 2020