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- Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author), Kessel, T. van (author) report 2002
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Plant, N.G. (author)This study showed that, in spite of annual and intra-annual forcing, interannual frequencies explained over 70% of the temporal morphologic variability observed at a beach near Duck, NC. Dominant interannual variability is not consistent with most existing conceptual models, which predict morphologic response at the same time scale as the...report 1998
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Rodriguez, A. (author)Background information related to a large study on the hydrodynamics of the surf zone, with focus on the Ebro Delta. Part A consists of a reprint of some articles, part B describes various field experiments all over the world, Part C gives all collected data during the 1993 field campaign in the Campañas delta.report 1997
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Svendsen, A. (author)Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline. When waves break on a gently sloping beach, large amounts of energy are released and turned into turbulence. As the waves keep breaking and interacting with...report 1992
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Roelvink, J.A. (author)The transformation of certain parameters of an incident random wave train across the surf zone has been the subject of much study and modelling effort. In recent literature, two classes of models have been developed, which are both based on the wave energy balance or the wave action equation, but use markedly different approaches. The main goal...report 1992
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Kroon, A. (author)The present report gives a summary of all the data collected during the field campaign at the beach and in the nearshore zone near Egmond aan Zee, the Netherlands in 1990. The field experiments are executed with the overall goal to improve the knowledge of the processes which govern the depositional and erosional responses of the surfzone,...report 1990
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Okayasu, A. (author)The characteristic motion of water under breaking waves and the turbulence structure in the surf zone were investigated through detailed two-dimensional velocity measurements in a wave flume. Significant difference was found between the breaking processes in the outer and inner regions of the surf zone. The velocity field in each region consists...report 1989
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- Rijn, L.C. van (author) report 1988
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- Bosman, J.J. (author) report 1986
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Van Heteren, J. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)Realistic modelling of the internal kinematics of wind waves breaking on a beach is of great practical importance, e.g. for the modelling of coastal processes and for the design of coastal structures. A fundarnental aspect in this modelling concerns. the relation between the surface elevation and the internal kinematics. In this respect it...report 1985
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- Derks, H. (author), Kos, T. (author), Moritz, H.C. (author) report 1983
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- Derks, H. (author) report 1983
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- Derks, H. (author), Kos, T. (author), Moritz, H.C. (author) report 1983
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Svendsen, I.A. (author)A theoretical model is developed for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. In the time averaged equations of energy and momentum the energy flux, radiation stress and energy dissipation are determined by simple approximations which include the surface roller in the breaker. Comparison with measurements shows good agreement. Also the...report 1983
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- Wind, H.G. (author) report 1982
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- Derks, H. (author) report 1982
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- Wenneker, J.C.A. (author) report 1981
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- Jansen, R.H.J. (author) report 1980
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Ostendorf, D.W. (author), Madsen, O.S. (author)Two momentum based longshore current models and a preliminary longshore sediment transport model are derived, calibrated and tested in the present investigation. The Linear Longshore Current Model predicts the relatively small longshore current induced by monochromatic, two dimensional, gravity waves of finite height and near normal incidence...report 1979
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- Heummen, T.L. van (author), Hulsbergen, C.H. (author) report 1971
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