Surf-Zone Hydrodynamics

Review paper on the recent progress in the field of wave modelling in the surf zone. The authors have the following concluding remarks (taken directly from the rapport): Wave breaking provides the forcing for larger scale motions in the surf zone. It is therefore probably both somewhat ironic as well as unfortunate that at the present time there...

Hydrodynamics of the Surf Zone

Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline. When waves break on a gently sloping beach, large amounts of energy are released and turned into turbulence. As the waves keep breaking and interacting with...