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Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Dekkers, Jochem (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), van Dongeren, Ap (author)Several studies have reported the development of undular bores over fringing coral reefs (e.g, Gallagher, 1976; Nwogu and Demirbilek, 2010) but the importance of this phenomenon for reef hydrodynamics has never been studied. Yet, the transformation of a long wave (e.g., swell or infragravity wave) into an undular bore leads to significant...conference paper 2018
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Pearson, S.G. (author), Storlazzi, C.D. (author), van Dongeren, A. R. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Many low-elevation, coral reef-lined, tropical coasts are vulnerable to the effects of climate change, sea level rise, and wave-induced flooding. The considerable morphological diversity of these coasts and the variability of the hydrodynamic forcing that they are exposed to make predicting wave-induced flooding a challenge. A process-based...journal article 2017