Measurements of hydrodynamics, sediment, morphology and benthos on Ameland ebb-tidal delta and lower shoreface

A large-scale field campaign was carried out on the ebb-tidal delta (ETD) of Ameland Inlet, a basin of the Wadden Sea in the Netherlands, as well as on three transects along the Dutch lower shoreface. The data have been obtained over the years 2017-2018. The most intensive campaign at the ETD of Ameland Inlet was in September 2017. With this...

Numerical experiments on resonant wave amplification over a fringing reef

Waves are important drivers for reef hydrodynamics, and therefore strongly contribute to flooding over reef-lined coasts. While high-frequency waves are largely dissipated when they propagate over the reef flat due to breaking and friction, low-frequency (LF) waves are generally able to reach the back-reef beach. There, they can reflect and form...

Hydro-Morphological Characterization of Coral Reefs for Wave Runup Prediction

Many coral reef-lined coasts are low-lying with elevations <4 m above mean sea level. Climate-change-driven sea-level rise, coral reef degradation, and changes in storm wave climate will lead to greater occurrence and impacts of wave-driven flooding. This poses a significant threat to their coastal communities. While greatly at risk, the...

Uncertainties in coastal flood risk assessments in small island developing states

Considering the likely increase in coastal flooding in small island developing states (SIDSs) due to climate change, coastal managers at the local and global levels have been developing initiatives aimed at implementing disaster risk reduction (DRR) and adaptation measures. Developing science-based adaptation policies requires accurate...

Wave-Skewness And Current-Related Ebb-Tidal Sediment Transport: Observations And Modeling

A combination of observations and modeling of wave-and current-related sediment transport at the ebb-tidal delta of Ameland, The Netherlands, has been used to examine the dominant sediment transport contributions shaping the ebb-tidal delta. The calibrated model shows a good comparison with the observations for a range of conditions. The results...

Undular bore development over a laboratory fringing reef

Several studies have reported the development of undular bores over fringing coral reefs (e.g, Gallagher, 1976; Nwogu and Demirbilek, 2010) but the importance of this phenomenon for reef hydrodynamics has never been studied. Yet, the transformation of a long wave (e.g., swell or infragravity wave) into an undular bore leads to significant...

A Bayesian-Based System to Assess Wave-Driven Flooding Hazards on Coral Reef-Lined Coasts

Many low-elevation, coral reef-lined, tropical coasts are vulnerable to the effects of climate change, sea level rise, and wave-induced flooding. The considerable morphological diversity of these coasts and the variability of the hydrodynamic forcing that they are exposed to make predicting wave-induced flooding a challenge. A process-based...