Onshore sandbar migration: Processing PIV measurements to analyse wave driven sediment transport in the nearshore

This study investigates wave driven onshore sandbar migration. Observations show that sandbars move onshore during mild wave conditions. Literature describes different potential sediment mechanisms that cause this onshore migration, but the dominant cause is still under debate. The goal of the present study is to determine the dominant sediment...

Impact Assessment of the Rhine ROFI on the Annual Cross-shore Sand Transport

Using D-Flow Flexible Mesh numerical software to simulate the region of freshwater influence of the Rhine in front of the Dutch coast to assess the influence of stratification on the near-bottom velocities and the related cross shore sand transport.

Cross-shore Velocity Moments in the Nearshore: Validating SWASH

The cross-shore sediment transport is of great importance in the coastal water since it may lead to significant change of coastal profile. Many researches have proved that the sediment transport is proportional to velocity moments. In this study, the velocity moments under wave action in the perpendicular direction to the coastline are studied...

Validation of X-Band radar derived hydrodynamic phenomena

The coastal area is a dynamic environment that suffers from human interventions and climate change. This requires extensive research and monitoring of the coastal areas. Measurement systems play a key role in the monitoring. Current velocities are for example often measured to investigate local hydrodynamics. At the moment the ADCP is often used...

Effectiveness of a multipurpose artificial underwater structure as a coral reef canopy: Hydrodynamic and ecological connectivity

The following research focuses on artificial underwater structures (a.k.a. artificial reefs) in a coral reef environment to mitigate the natural and anthropogenic pressures which reef systems are increasingly facing worldwide. The research question is stated as: “Establishing a method to determine if a multipurpose artificial underwater...

Nearshore currents and swimmer safety in the Netherlands

Artificial beach and foreshore nourishments, as executed widely along the Dutch coast, change the nearshore morphology and current patterns significantly. Over the last decades the size of the nourishments has increased from 0.7 x 106 m3/km to over 6 x 106 m3/km. Groynes which were present along the southern Holland coast since the 19th century...

Modelling Sediment Transport in the Swash Zone

The swash zone is the part of the beach that reaches from the limit of wave run-up until the limit of wave run-down. It is recognized as being a dynamic area of the nearshore region, characterized by strong and unsteady flows, high turbulence levels, large sediment transport rates and morphological changes on a small timescale. Due to the...

Erosive bar migration using density and diameter scaled sediment

Mobile bed scaling (for scales smaller than 1:1) does not allow for ideal similarity between all nondimensional parameters. This leads to an exaggerated presence of one process over another or the development of scale effects. The complexity of the surf zone makes it especially difficult to separate and quantify the effect of sediment scaling on...

Rip currents: A laboratory study of a rip current in the presence of a submerged reef

Detailed laboratory measurements of the wave and current field induced by bi-chromatic waves incident on an artificial surfing reef are presented. Strong wave focussing occurs on the surfing reef. Both PTV and in-situ measurements are reported that show the presence of a strong rip current flowing oblique off-shore. Observed water level set-up...

On the generation of surfable ship waves in a circular pool: Part I: physical background & wave pool design

Surfing as a sport is growing. Locations with good surfing conditions are limited and therefore crowded. The growing interest for the sport led to a new concept, surf pools. Surf pools mimic good surfing conditions found along the coast. This thesis is about the technical feasibility of a new surf pool concept, creating surfing waves in a...

On the generation of surfable ship waves, Part II: The application of stereo photo technique measuring water surface elevation and surface flow velocities

Wave pools are designed to mimic surfing conditions as they exist along coasts. The Liquid Time Wave Pool concept, invented by Greg Webber, suggests a new method for wave generation. Waves are generated by a hull which moves in a channel. These "ship waves" break on a slope creating surf. Key feature of the concept is to make ship waves surfable...

Surfability of an ASR in irregular waves

Wave surfing is a popular sport all around the world where the conditions allow for it. Waves preferred by surfers are higher than 1 meter, have a certain hollow breaker shape (plunger) and the angle under which a wave breaks, the peel angle, is within 30-70 degrees. Also in the Netherlands surfing becomes increasingly popular but Dutch wave...

Artificial Surf Reef on Maasvlakte 2

The growing need for space to offer the opportunities for growth and renewal of port related activities for the port of Rotterdam has lead to the project mainport development Rotterdam. Within the framework of this project, a land reclamation has been foreseen, Maasvlakte 2. For this land reclamation two different types of sea defences will be...