The effects of currents on wave nonlinearities

This study investigates nonlinear wave shape and the near-bed velocity influenced in the vicinity of a tidal inlet for the SEdiment supply At the WAdden Sea ebb-tidal Delta project. Wave nonlinearities occur when waves encounter a flow. An opposing flow leads to waves with higher peaks and reduced wave length. During a following flow, the waves...

Investigating spectral wave properties and their effects on bottom evolution induced by waves and current

In many coastal seas, wind-generated waves produce a strong bottom orbital velocity which stirs up sand from the bottom. This process strongly influence sediment transport and bottom evolution. State-of-the-art morphodynamic models traditionally represent the stirring of sand by irregular waves in a highly parametric way. For instance, the...