Opening and closure of intermittently open natural inlets

Tidal inlet systems are found all over the world. These highly dynamic coastal features can be classified into three main types wave-dominated, tide-dominated or river-dominated tidal inlet systems. A tidal inlet is described as an opening in the shoreline that provides a connection between the ocean and a bay and is maintained by tidal currents...

Incident, infragravity and very low frequency wave motions on an atoll reef platform

Coral reefs are hard structures that front many coasts in tropical and subtropical climates and protect them against wave attack and erosion. Despite reducing incoming wave energy by up to 98%, coral reefs are not a guarantee that mainland or island coasts are safe from being flooded. This was demonstrated by a series of wave-driven flooding...

Modelling sand-mud-bed interaction in the Scheldt estuary

The tide-dominated Scheldt estuary is located in the southwest of the Netherlands. From the Dutch-Belgian border seawards, it consists of a system of channels and shoals and an ebb-tidal delta facing the North Sea. The behaviour of non-cohesive (sand) and cohesive (mud) sediment particles in the area are (until now) generally studied using...

Modelling the impact of large scale sediment dumping on the meso-scale hydro- and morphodynamics in the Western Scheldt

The current report aims to understand the hydro- and morphodynamic response of the Western Scheldt in a large sediment dumping operation. This study investigates the estuary’s response to sediment dumping in the Everingen channel area, which is located in the middle of the Scheldt Estuary, The Netherlands. Furthermore, it studies whether these...

Morphological impact of the Sinterklaas storm at Het Zwin: Numerical modelling with XBeach

A very large storm hit the coasts of The Netherlands-and most of north-west Europe-during the evening of the 5th of December 2013. The Sinterklaas storm, as it was later known, induced extremely high water levels and substantial dune erosion all along the Dutch coastline. In this thesis the morphological impact of the Sinterklaas storm at one...

Wave runup on atoll reefs

The aim of this research was to take the first step in understanding the wave runup process on an atoll reef using the XBeach model. Field data collected from 3 November 2013 to 13 April 2014 at Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of the Marshall Islands was used. The dataset included data on bathymetry, waves, water levels and wave-induced runup....

Modelling of Grain Sorting Mechanisms in the Nearshore Area for Natural and Nourished Beaches

In this study a modelling approach was investigated that takes into account the effect of short wave grouping on long wave motions, calculating sediment transport and morphology with multiple fractions and a layered bed stratigraphy. After extensive testing and validating this model using data collected in a wave flume in Hannover this model was...

Process-based modelling of the Santo André Lagoon: Understanding of the physical processes involved in the inlet closure

The Santo André Lagoon is one of many inlets and lagoons that can be found along the along the Atlantic coast of Portugal. These coastal systems have a large ecological value and are important for rich biodiversity. The Santo André Lagoon is part of a natural reserve that is officially under protection of the country. It has a rich flora and...