Swell propagation in a natural coastal channel in the SWAN model

Compare the 1D spectrum computed in SWAN (Svasek, 2007) with it measured by buoy OS4 in the Oosterschelde Estuary, serious underestimation of wave energy can be found on low-frequency band. Investigation has been performed to find the possible reasons for the missing energy on low frequency part. In this study, diffraction is hypothesized as the...

An inquiry into the limits of applicability of the refraction - diffraction equation

This study has been undertaken in order to find out what is to be understood by " rather gentle " slopes. That is, it is an inquiry into the limits of applicability of the refraction - diffraction equation. In this study, the refraction - diffraction equation, as well as the set of equations from which it has "been derived, are used to predict...

An investigation of two-dimensional wave propagation problems

The methods used in practice for computing wave-propagation are mainly based on two theories. The first one describes the refraction of waves in case of variable depth. The determination of this effect is based on the assumption that a wave locally behaves as a straight-crested wave of constant amplitude. Because of this the celerity is...