Low Frequency Waves in the Shoaling and Nearshore Zone

It has been found by many researchers that low frequency (LF) waves dominate the wave energy spectrum in very shallow water. Given that many longshore and cross-shore morphological processes are located within this zone, LF waves play an important role in determining morphological change, especially dune erosion and overwash during storm events....

Perched beach with submerged breakwater as a solution for the shore protection of Maasvlakte II

This new land will be exposed to a North Sea wave climate and tidal currents. Severe erosion of the dunes and a large draw back of the coastline has to be avoided. One of the possibilities to influence the wave climate and thus the sediment transport nearshore is by using a perched beach with a submerged breakwater (see Figures A2 and A3). The...

Energy dissipation in random breaking waves: The probability of breaking

The present wave transformation models for random waves make use of an explicit formulation of the energy dissipation. A time-averaged model has been studied in which the dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height. The probability of occurrence of breaking is derived from a wave height...

Energieverloop en golfopstuwing bij brekende onregelmatige golven: Metingen en berekeningen

A description is given of a model developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach. The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height, while the probability of occurrence of breaking waves is estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an...