Numerical and small-scale physical modelling of wave transmission by wooden fences

Mangrove forests, that often act as natural coastal defences, enormously suffered due to ongoing climate change and human disturbances. Thus, it is necessary to have a countermeasure to mitigate the loss of mangroves. Wooden fences are becoming a viable nature-based solution to protect vulnerable replanted mangrove forests. However, the wooden...

Aggregated morphodynamic modelling of tidal inlets and estuaries

Aggregation is used to represent the real world in a model at an appropriate level of abstraction. We used the convection-diffusion equation to<br/>examine the implications of aggregation progressing from a three-dimensional (3D) spatial description to a model representing a system as a<br/>single box that exchanges sediment with the adjacent...

Optimal sediment transport for morphodynamic model validation

Although commonly used for the validation of morphological predictions, point-wise accuracy metrics, such as the root-mean-squared error (RMSE), are not well suited to demonstrate the quality of a high-variability prediction; in the presence of (often inevitable) location errors, the comparison of depth values per grid point tends to favour...

The effects of wave non-linearity on wave attenuation by vegetation

Wave attenuation through mangrove forests has received more and more attention, especially in the context of increasing coastal erosion and sea-level-rise. Numerous studies have focused on studying the reduction of wave height in a mangrove forest. However, the understanding of this attenuation process is still in its infancy. In order to obtain...

A Morphodynamic Modeling Study on the Formation of the Large‐Scale Radial Sand Ridges in the Southern Yellow Sea

The radial sand ridges (denoted as “RSRs” hereafter) in the Southern Yellow Sea, China, are morphologically striking because of the remarkable size and radial planar orientation, standing out as a unique coastal geomorphology among the worldwide sand ridge systems. The formation of this giant fan‐shaped geomorphic feature requires delicate...

Numerical modelling of hydrodynamics of permeable pile groins using SWASH

This paper focuses on a specific form of groins, Permeable Pile Groins (PPGs), consisting of a single or double rows of wooden piles. With only few experiments and simulations available to study the hydraulic functioning of PPGs, the correlation between the effectiveness and the characteristics of the groin system has yet to be fully understood....

Laboratory validation of SWASH longshore current modelling

In this paper, the ability of the numerical phase resolving model SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) to hindcast wave-induced longshore currents is evaluated. Using default settings for all processes modelled, highly accurate results are found for wave heights, mean water levels and longshore currents. While wave current interaction is...

Modelling of bed sediment composition changes at the lower shoreface of the Sand Motor

Large perturbations in the coastline, such as the 'Sand Motor' nourishment (∼21 million m³) at the Holland coast, can initiate considerable spatial and temporal changes in the median grain size (D₅₀) of the sea bed on the lower shoreface. The relevance of hydrodynamic conditions for the development of the heterogeneity...

Wave Damping due to Wooden Fences along Mangrove Coasts

Dao, T.; Stive, M.J.F.; Hofland, B., and Mai, T., 2018. Wave damping due to wooden fences along mangrove coasts. In the Mekong Delta, as in many other mangrove settings, wooden fences are considered beneficial coastal structures to provide sheltering for mangrove replantation efforts by reducing waves and currents and promoting sedimentation....

Modeling of a mixed?load fluvio?deltaic system

Present?day observations and classical classification schemes of alluvial deltas address feeder channel dynamics and multiple sediment fractions. However, high?resolution physics?based mathematical models have not been applied to address formation of both fluvio?deltaic links (channels) and nodes (diffluences and confluences), and their...

Proces-based modeling of the overflow induced growth of erosional channels

A new process-based approach is introduced for a more efficient computation of the overflow-induced growth of an erosional channel in a noncohesive homogeneous narrow landmass such as the breach growth in a sand-dike. The approach is easy to incorporate in a 1D/2DV morphodynamic model to compute the channel growth both vertically and laterally....

Impacts of sea-level rise on the Ebro Delta: A first approach. Coastal zone management in the Mediterranean

Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology: A review

Sea-level rise and shore nourishment. A discussion

Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach Barre provoquant des mecanismes d' ecoulement perpendiculaires a la plage

Quasi-3D Modelling of Nearshore Currents

Calibration and verification of a dissipation model for random breaking waves