Quantifying the quality of coastal morphological predictions

This thesis investigates the behaviour of the often used point-wise skill score, the MSESSini a.k.a. BSS, and develops new error metrics that, as opposed to point-wise metrics, take the spatial structure of morphological patterns into account. The...

On the anatomy of nearshore sandbars: A systematic exposition of inter-annual sandbar dynamics

Nearshore sandbars have a lifetime of many years, during which they exhibit cyclic, offshore directed behaviour with strong alongshore coherence. A bar is generated near the shoreline and grows in height and width while migrating offshore, before finally decaying at the seaward limit of the surf zone. It may take 10 to 15 years for a bar to...

Modelling rhythmic morphology in the surf zone

Coastal erosion is increasingly being prevented by the application of shoreface nourishments. Although they are applied successfully, their development and their impact on the coastal system is still difficult to predict. Especially the effects of shoreface nourishments on the already existing rhythmic bed forms in the surf zone are unknown. The...