Wave-Driven Hydrodynamic Processes Over Fringing Reefs With Varying Slopes, Depths, and Roughness: Implications for Coastal Protection

Wave breaking on the steep fore-reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at dissipating incident sea-swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea-swell breaking process are often the largest contributors to wave-driven water levels (wave runup) at the...

Hydrodynamic Drivers of Sediment Transport Across a Fringing Reef

Coral reefs are highly valuable ecosystems, which are under an increasing number of environmental pressures. Sedimentation and sediment transport patterns are among key physical drivers of coral reefs, so it is important to improve our understanding of these poorly studied dynamics on reefs. To this purpose, flume experiments were performed on a...

The influence of hydrodynamic forcing on sediment transport pathways and shoreline evolution in a coral reef environment

Low frequency wave resonance in fringing reef environments

Low frequency wave resonance has been postulated to enhance damage to coral reef protected coastlines during storm events. This paper uses the numerical model XBeach to examine the dynamics that contribute to resonance that have been previously observed on a fringing reef on Guam during tropical storm Man-Yi (Péquignet et al., 2009). The methods...

The dynamics of infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef

A 3 week field study was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low-frequency (infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short-period wave motions (0.04–0.2 Hz) were observed to dissipate on the reef crest beyond which infragravity wave motions (0.004–0.04 Hz) gradually dominated toward the lagoon....

Low frequency wave resonance on fringing reefs

Reef systems have been estimated to exist along approximately 80% of the world’s coastlines with living coral reefs, relic limestone platforms and submerged rock formations being the most common types observed. The processes of wave breaking on a reef crest, setup on a reef and flow over and within a lagoon, have been the primary focus of...