Rip current predictions through model-data assimilation on two distinct beaches

This paper describes the development of a physics-based rip current prediction system called CoSMoS. This system consists of a hydrodynamic prediction system which is composed of a train of surge and wave models from the global scale to the scale of a beach resort (order kilometers). For the beach resort scale model, it is of utmost importance...

Nearshore subtidal bathymetry from time-exposure video images

Time-averaged (over many wave periods) nearshore video observations show the process of wave breaking as one or more white alongshore bands of high intensity. Across a known depth profile, similar bands of dissipation can be predicted with a model describing the time-averaged cross-shore evolution of organized wave and roller energy. This close...

Bed variability in the surf zone at the storm- and seasonal time scale, mapped by Argus-video techniques: Preliminary results using the SBM-2DH model