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Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author), Ruessink, B.G. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author)
Time-averaged (over many wave periods) nearshore video observations show the process of wave breaking as one or more white alongshore bands of high intensity. Across a known depth profile, similar bands of dissipation can be predicted with a model describing the time-averaged cross-shore evolution of organized wave and roller energy. This close...
journal article 2005