Impact of Free Long Waves on Dune Erosion Predictions in Numerical Modelling

This report presents the methodology and findings of a study on the impacts of free long waves on dune erosion predictions in XBeach. In this paper a distinction is made between two types of infragravity waves: bound infragravity waves and free infragravity waves. Bound infragravity waves are generated by short-wave group forcings and are bound...

Numerical Modelling of Beach Recovery Following a Storm Event: A Hybrid Behavioural / Process-Based Approach

The present thesis describes the development of a hybrid behavioural / process-based and wave-averaged model (XBeach Surfbeat) that successfully predicts the recovery of the subaerial beach at Narrabeen Beach, Australia, following a severe storm erosion in April 2015. Two model innovations were developed. Firstly, a behavioural model was...

Rip Current Characteristics at the Dutch Coast: Egmond aan Zee

Rip currents are narrow, seaward directed flows in the surf zone that can pose a serious threat to swimmers. This issue has received attention particularly on swell dominated coasts (such as the US, Australia, France and UK) where numerous field experiments have been undertaken. However, the threat of rip currents is less recognised on wind-sea...