Modelling Sediment Transport in the Swash Zone

The swash zone is the part of the beach that reaches from the limit of wave run-up until the limit of wave run-down. It is recognized as being a dynamic area of the nearshore region, characterized by strong and unsteady flows, high turbulence levels, large sediment transport rates and morphological changes on a small timescale. Due to the...

The influence of incident waves on runup: A comparison between a phase-averaged and a phase-resolving XBeach model

Wave runup is generated by energy which remains after wave breaking and travels farther to the coast in the form of a bore. It can be seen as a thin wedge of water running up the beach face (Brocchini and Baldock, 2008). Under storm conditions runup is responsible for beach and dune erosion and accurate runup predictions are therefore required ...

Groyne field nourishments: A research into the application of feeder nourishments to supply sediment to the main channel

In the Waal bed degradation occurs, which is mainly induced by a large number of river regulations measures done in the past. Rijkswaterstaat develops possible measures and new techniques to stop riverbed erosion and/or mitigate the negative effects. One of the possible new techniques to reduce riverbed erosion locally is groyne field...

The potential of dune vegetation during storm conditions: Assessing the applicability of XBeach in dune rehabilitation projects

Coastal protection is required to keep coastal areas protected during storm conditions. Coastal dunes are a natural defense against flooding and erosion from the sea against storms. Many insights have been obtained regarding the positive effects of coastal dune vegetation on dune formation and growth in the past. Several recent studies have...