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Roelvink, D. (author), Stelling, G. (author), Hoonhout, B.M. (author), Risandi, J. (author), Jacobs, W. (author), Merli, D. (author)The formulations of the 2DH process-based, nearshore morphological model XBeach were extended to allow for curvilinear grids using a finite volume approach. The formulations were tested for schematic cases such as a circular island and a field validation study was carried out for the case of storm erosion during a construction phase of the soft...conference paper 2012
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Van Dongeren, A. (author), Van Ormondt, M. (author), Sembiring, L. (author), Sasso, R. (author), Austin, M. (author), Briere, C. (author), Swinkels, C. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Van Thiel De Vries, J.S.M. (author)This paper describes the development of a physics-based rip current prediction system called CoSMoS. This system consists of a hydrodynamic prediction system which is composed of a train of surge and wave models from the global scale to the scale of a beach resort (order kilometers). For the beach resort scale model, it is of utmost importance...conference paper 2013
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Daly, C. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), McCall, R.T. (author)The effect of short wave breaking on low frequency waves is investigated using two breaker formulations implemented in a time-dependent numerical model (XBeach): (1) an advective-deterministic approach (ADA) and (2) the probabilistic breaker formulation of Roelvink (1993). Previous research has shown that the ADA breaker model gives different...conference paper 2010
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Winter, G. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), De Schipper, M.A. (author), Van Thiele de Vries, J.S.M. (author)Rip currents are wave-induced and off-shore directed flows which occur frequently in the surf zone and can pose a serious threat to swimmers. While the behaviour of rip currents has been studied in swell-dominated environments, less is known about their characteristics in wind-sea dominated environments. This study aims to improve the knowledge...conference paper 2012
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Den Heijer, C. (author)Coastal dunes play an important role in protecting low-lying hinterland from flooding. In The Netherlands, dunes form the major part of the primary sea defence, that protects half of the population and over two-third of the economy from the sea. To design and maintain coastal dunes that properly protect the hinterland, a regular safety...conference paper 2012
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Van Santen, R.B. (author), Steetzel, H.J. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author)Regular dune safety assessments in the Netherlands are presently based on a 1D model approach, which is insufficiently applicable for more complex coastal areas with structures, tidal channels or spatially strong varying bathymetry. These situations require more advanced methods to assess the safety in dune areas. In this study a 2DH XBeach...conference paper 2012
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Winter, G. (author), van Dongeren, A. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author)Rip currents are wave-induced and off-shore directed flows which occur frequently in the surf zone and can pose a serious threat to swimmers. While the behaviour of rip currents has been studied in swell-dominated environments, less is known about their characteristics in wind-sea dominated environments. This study aims to improve the knowledge...conference paper 2012
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Van Geer, P. (author), De Vries, S. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author)This paper describes the validation of the dune erosion model XBeach with laboratory measurement data of dune erosion in the presence of sea walls and revetments. Simulation results show that the essential dune set back processes are captured by the model and that the measurements at most locations are approximated quite well. Some aspects...conference paper 2012
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Van Rooijen, A. (author), Reniers, A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), Blenkinsopp, C. (author), McCall, R. (author)A one-dimensional hydrostatic version of the XBeach model (Roelvink et al., 2009) is applied to hindcast swash morphodynamics measured during an accretive, and an erosive tide at Le Truc Vert beach (France) in early spring 2008 (Masselink et. al, 2009; Blenkinsopp et al., 2011). Swash hydrodynamics are solved by applying the nonlinear shallow...conference paper 2012
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Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B. (author), Callaghan, D. (author), Roelvink, D. (author)The dependency between the accuracy/uncertainty of storm erosion exceedance estimates obtained via a probabilistic model and the level of sophistication of the structural function (storm erosion model) embedded in the probabilistic model is assessed via the application of Callaghan et al.'s (2008) Joint Probability Model (JPM) at Narrabeen beach...conference paper 2013
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McCall, R. (author), Plant, N. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author)This paper describes an application of the XBeach model to investigate the effect of longshore topographic variance on overwash. The model is used to simulate the morphological response of an eight-kilometer section of Santa Rosa Island, Florida, due to Hurricane Ivan (2004). The influence of longshore scales in the bed elevation is investigated...conference paper 2011
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Roelvink, D. (author), Den Heijer, C. (author), Van Thiel De Vries, J.S.M. (author)Land reclamations and island coasts often involve strongly curved shorelines, which are challenging to be properly modeled by numerical morphological models. Evaluation of the long term development of these types of coasts as well as their response to storm conditions requires proper representation of the governing physical processes. Not all...conference paper 2013
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Van Geer, P.F.C. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), Boers, M. (author), Den Bieman, J.P. (author), McCall, R.T. (author)This paper presents adaptations to the XBeach model aimed at including the relevant processes for the generation of scour holes at the toe of a revetment. Dutch assessment rules for the safety of sea defenses need to be adjusted to cope with a combination of sandy dunes and hard elements. To that end, the XBeach model is prepared to be...conference paper 2014
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Matias, Ana (author), Carrasco, Ana Rita (author), Loureiro, Carlos (author), Andriolo, Umberto (author), Masselink, Gerd (author), Guerreiro, Martha (author), Pacheco, A (author), McCall, R.T. (author), Ferreira, Óscar (author), Plomaritis, Theocharis A. (author)Overwash hydrodynamics datasets are mixed in quality and scope, being hard to obtain due to fieldwork experimental difficulties. Aiming to overcome such limitations, this work presents accurate fieldwork data on overwash<br/>hydrodynamics, further exploring it to model overwash on a low-lying barrier island. Fieldwork was performed on Barreta...conference paper 2017
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Winter, Gundula (author), Van Dongeren, Ap (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), van Thiel De Vries, J.S.M. (author)Rip currents are wave-induced and off-shore directed flows which occur frequently in the surf zone and can pose a serious threat to swimmers. While the behaviour of rip currents has been studied in swell-dominated environments, less is known about their characteristics in wind-sea dominated environments. This study aims to improve the...conference paper 2012
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Athanasiou, Panagiotis (author), Van Dongeren, Ap (author), Giardino, Alessio (author), Vousdoukas, Michalis (author), Antolínez, José A. Á. (author), Ranasinghe, Roshanka (author)Dune erosion driven by extreme marine storms can damage local infrastructure or ecosystems and affect the long-term flood safety of the hinterland. These storms typically affect long stretches (∼100 km) of sandy coastlines with variable topo-bathymetries. The large spatial scale makes it computationally challenging for process-based...journal article 2021
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Bruch, William (author), Cordier, Emmanuel (author), Floc'h, France (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)Coral reefs represent an efficient natural mechanical coastal defense against ocean waves. The focus of this study is La Saline fringing coral reef, located in the microtidal West of La Réunion Island in the Indian Ocean, frequently exposed to Southern Ocean swell and cyclonic events. The aim is to provide a better understanding of the reef's...journal article 2022
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de Beer, A. F. (author), McCall, R. T. (author), Long, J. W. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically...journal article 2021
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de Ridder, M.P. (author), Smit, Pieter B. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), McCall, Robert T. (author), Nederhoff, Kees (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)A 2-layer non-hydrostatic model with improved dispersive behaviour is presented. Due to the assumption of a constant non-hydrostatic pressure distribution in the lower layer, the dispersive behaviour is improved without much additional computational time. A comparison with linear wave theory showed that this 2-layer model gives a better...journal article 2021
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Relative Magnitude of Infragravity Waves at Coastal Dikes with Shallow Foreshores: A Prediction ToolLashley, Christopher H. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), van der Meer, J.W. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author)Despite the widely recognized role of infragravity (IG) waves in many often-hazardous nearshore processes, spectral wave models, which exclude IG-wave dynamics, are often used in the design and assessment of coastal dikes. Consequently, the safety of these structures in environments where IG waves dominate remains uncertain. Here, we combine...journal article 2020