Stabiliteit van breuksteenoverlaging op een steenzetting

Oploop- en overslagmetingen op een ondiep voorland

Verification of PHIDIAS against shallow water wave data

Shear stresses and mean flow in shoaling and breaking waves

We investigate the vertical, wave averaged distributions of shear stresses and Eulerian flow in normally incident, shoaling and breaking waves. It is found that shear stresses are solely due to wave amplitude variations, which can be caused by shoaling, boundary layer dissipation and/or breaking wave dissipation. The resulting shear stress and...

Characteristics of Turbulence Structure and Undertow in the Surf Zone

The characteristic motion of water under breaking waves and the turbulence structure in the surf zone were investigated through detailed two-dimensional velocity measurements in a wave flume. Significant difference was found between the breaking processes in the outer and inner regions of the surf zone. The velocity field in each region consists...

Erosie door open taludbekledingen, bijlage F: Snelheden op talud door brekende golven

A drogue design to prevent breaking wave capsize of monohull sailing yachts

Energy dissipation in breaking solitary and periodic waves

It is well known (see Divoky et al., 1970, for a review) that on gentle slopes (slope S < 1:30, say) the wave height after breaking does not decay in proportion to the mean depth. The curve H/Hb vs h/hb is concave upwards (for plane bottom). The concavity increases with decreasing S and with increasing Ho/Lo (Nakamura et al., 1966). The often...

An investigation into stability of sailing yachts in large breaking waves

What causes a Boat to Capsize

A method of computation for unsteady wave-driven coastal currents

Influence of Ambient Air Pressure on Impact Pressures Caused by Breaking Waves

Experimental research to the influence of the air pressure on the impact pressure cause by breaking waves. The research shows that there are three factors which load the structure during the breaking of waves: the water layer over the structure, the shock due to the impact of the water jet from breaking and the air pocket entrapped in the water...

Shock Pressures Caused by Waves Breaking against Coastal Structures

Shock pressures of high intensity and short duration may occur during breaking of waves on coastal structures, slamming of ships, landing of seaplanes, and water entry of naval projectiles with flat nose. The phenomenon of shock pressures resulting from the impact between a solid and a liquid can better be described as a water hammer phenomenon...