Statistical wave properties in shallow water using cnoidal theory

Various properties of wind-generated waves in coastal regions are significantly different from those in deep water regions. The differences are largely due to the influence of bathymetry, which is more pronounced in shallower water. In general, deep water waves are considered a Gaussian random process with only minor discrepancies between the...

An investigation on salt marsh resilience to sea-level rise and increased storm intensity

Salt marshes are ecosystems with significant economic and environmental value. They provide numerous services, including nutrient removal, habitat provision and carbon sequestration (Barbier et al., 2011). They are also widely recognised as nature-based solutions for coastal defence due to their ability to buffer storm waves (Leonardi et al.,...