Searched for: subject%3A%22wave%255C+action%22
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Zijlema, Marcel (author)
This paper discusses the discretization methods that have been commonly employed to solve the wave action balance equation, and that have gained a renewed interest with the widespread use of unstructured grids for third-generation spectral wind-wave models. These methods are the first-order upwind finite difference and first-order vertex...
journal article 2021
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van der Lugt, Marlies (author)
Waves in coastal waters play a role in forecasting storm conditions, as boundary conditions for the assessment of coastal risk and in coastal structure design. Assessment of their impact can be made through numerical modeling. In a forecasting context, the CPU time of the wave model is decisive in its suitability. Recent years wave model...
master thesis 2017
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Rosa Santos, P. (pjrs@fe.up.pt) (author), Veloso Gomes, F. (vgomes@fe.up.pt) (author), Taveira Pinto, F. (fpinto@fe.up.pt) (author), Brógueira Dias, E. (brogueira.dias@apdl.pt) (author)
The Port of Leixões is located in the northwest coast of Portugal. Its oil terminal has one berth that is somewhat exposed to rough environmental conditions and has some operational problems. In order to improve operational and security conditions at that berth (Berth “A”), the Port Authority has commissioned several studies along the years that...
conference paper 2010
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Blom, J.A.H. (author)
Het onderzoek beschrijft de trekproeven en schuifproeven die in het veld zijn uitgevoerd ter verificatie van het liggermodel voor geklemde steenzettingen. De proeven worden in Zeeland uitgevoerd. Er is gemeten aan Hydroblocks en Basalton zettingen met resp. 35 en 25 cm zuilhoogte. In totaal zijn er 61 trekproeven en 11 schuifproeven uitgevoerd....
master thesis 2006
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Veldhuizen, M. (author), Schrieks, M. (author), Van der Broekhoven, R. (author), Wierenga, J. (author), Sipkema, D. (author)
Master Project report on an improvement of the coastal protection around a maritime fortress "El Castillo del Moro" in Havana, Cuba
student report 2005
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Bijvoet, R.F. (author)
During the last years, experimental research in the Large Oscillating Water Tunnel (L. O. W. T.) and the Vinje basin (both of Delft Hydraulics) is aimed at the understanding and mathematical description of the process of near-bed sediment transport induced by non-breaking waves. The understanding of the near-bed sediment dynamics is important...
master thesis 1996
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Reijnders, M. (author)
The seabed of many coastal and estuarine areas in the world mainly consists of mud. The interest in the complex behaviour of mud has increased considerably the last few decades, because mud has become more and more a menace to the environment. Contamination o f mud has infertalized agricultural land and with the increase of harbor activity,...
master thesis 1995
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Van Gent, M.R.A. (author)
The wave motion on-and-in Berm breakwaters as well as the reshaping process have been studied. Measurements were carried out to study wave interaction with a reshaped Berm breakwater. These tests were used for verification of a numerical model capable of simulating both the wave motion on as well as inside the structure. This numerical model has...
report 1993
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Van Gent, M.R.A. (author)
Measurements in a U-tube tunnel were carried out to study flow through coarse granular material. Tests with stationary flow and tests with oscillatory flow were done to study the differences between both. The coefficients from the extended Forchheimer equation, which is supposed to describe non-stationary porous flow, were determined. It...
report 1993
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Van Gent, M.R.A. (author)
In the MAST-G6-S program numerical models will be developed for the description of wave motion on and in coastal structures. The most accurate one will probably be the SKYLLA model. That model uses the two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations. For a description, see Broekens and Petit (1991). After it has been developed for structures with an...
report 1992
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Van Gent, M.R.A. (author)
For the description of porous flow the Forchheimer equation is normally used. Several formulae have been proposed for the coefficients Cl and c2 from this equation. All these formulae are based on experiments. Those coefficients represent the friction and resistance caused by the porous medium. The Forchheimer equation is a somewhat semi...
report 1992
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Sobey, R.J. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)
Shelf circulation is driven primarily by wind- and tide-induced forces. It is laterally only weakly constrained so that the geostrophic (Coriolis) acceleration is manifest in the response. Nearshore circulation on the other hand is dominated by wave-induced forces associated with shallow-water. wave breaking and is confined to a relatively...
conference paper 1990
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Dominske, D. (author)
1.0 Determination Of Forces Generated By Moving Water 1 1.1 Forces Due To Flowing Water 1 1.2 Forces Due To Wave Action 8 2.0 Resisting Forces Provided By Erosion Proteetion 11 2.1 ARMORFORM Mat Characteristics 11 2.2 Resisting Forces On Channel Bottom 12 2.3 Resisting Force On Slopes 17 2.4 Additional Resisting Force Given By Anchors 18 3.0...
report 1989
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Journée, J.M.J. (author), Massie, W.W. (author), Boon, B. (author), Onnink, R. (author)
Experiments in a physical model to measure forces in the joints and displacements of the nodes in the structure as effect of wave action.
report 1988
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Anonymus, A. (author)
Design manual for coastal structures. Note that this manual is replaced by the Coastal Engineering Manual. However, this document contains quite some useful information for present day coastal engineers
report 1984
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Bruun, P. (author), Nayak, G.U. (author)
I. Introduction I. I General review on causes of beach erosion I·2 Rise of sea level 1·3 Heavy storms, storm surges, wave action and its seasonal effects 1.4 Littoral drift barriers, natural and man-made conditions in India 2· Beach Surveys 2.1 Bathymetric surveys 2.2 Sand sampling and analysis 2,2.1 Sand sampling 2.2.2 Sample analysis 2·2.3...
report 1980
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Naheer, E. (author)
An empirical relationship is presented for the incipient motion of bottom material under solitary waves. Two special cases of bottom material are considered: particles of arbitrary shape, and isolated sphere resting on top of a bed of tightly packed spheres. The amount of motion in the bed of particles of arbitrary shape is shown to depend on a...
report 1977
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Bakker, W.T. (author)
Computation of concentration verticals, using a computer program
report 1972
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Bijker, E.W. (author)
Contains papers and discussions of the symposium: de Jong, J. - New wind waves flumes; Wiegel, R.L. - Waves and their effects on pile-supported structures; Svasek, J.N. - Statistical evaluation of wave conditions in deltaic areas; d'Angremond, K. and Van Oorschot, J.H. - Generation of irregular waves on model scales; Rogan, A.N. - A comparison...
book 1969
document
Iribarren Cavanilles, R. (author)
Development of a formula for the stability of rubble mound breakwaters.
report 1953
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