Searched for: subject%3A%22waves%22
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Reyns, J.A.H. (author), McCall, Robert (author), Ranasinghe, Roshanka (author), van Dongeren, Ap (author), Roelvink, D. (author)
An unstructured hydrodynamic model is presented that is able to simulate 2D nearshore hydrodynamics on the wave group scale. A non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading, with physics similar to XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) is linked to an improved and extended version of the existing unstructured flow solver Delft3D–FM (Kernkamp...
journal article 2023
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Elmilady, H.M.S.M.A. (author), van der Wegen, M. (author), Roelvink, D. (author), van der Spek, A. (author)
Intertidal shoals are key features of estuarine environments worldwide. Climate change poses questions regarding the sustainability of intertidal areas under sea-level rise (SLR). Our work investigates the SLR impact on the long-term morphological evolution of unvegetated intertidal sandy shoals in a constrained channel-shoal system....
journal article 2022
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Huijten, Esmee (author), Roelvink, Yannick (author), Brackenhoff, Stefanie A. (author), Zaalberg, S.L. (author), Doing, Anne Kee (author), Baselmans, J.J.A. (author), Karatsu, K. (author), Pascual Laguna, A. (author), van Hoven, M.B. (author), Endo, A. (author)
The next technological breakthrough in millimeter–submillimeter astronomy is three-dimensional imaging spectrometry with wide instantaneous spectral bandwidths and wide fields of view. The total optimization of the focal-plane instrument, the telescope, the observing strategy, and the signal-processing software must enable efficient removal...
journal article 2022
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Matsuba, Yoshinao (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Shimozono, Takenori (author)
Understanding directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves composed of free and bound components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (e.g., coastal inundation and morphological change). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectra relying on linear wave theory are not applicable to IG waves...
journal article 2022
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Roelvink, Floortje E. (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)
Coral reefs are effective natural coastal flood barriers that protect adjacent communities. Coral degradation compromises the coastal protection value of reefs while also reducing their other ecosystem services, making them a target for restoration. Here we provide a physics-based evaluation of how coral restoration can reduce coastal flooding...
journal article 2021
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Nguyen, T.D. (author), Jacobsen, Niels G. (author), Roelvink, D. (author)
This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is employed to derive a set of quasi-Eulerian mean three-dimensional equations of motion, where...
journal article 2021
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Nguyen, T.D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Roelvink, D. (author)
In numerical ocean models, the effect of waves on currents is usually expressed by either vortex-force or radiation stress representations. In this paper, the differences and similarities between those two representations are investigated in detail in conditions of both conservative and nonconservative waves. In addition, comparisons between...
journal article 2021
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Elghandour, A.M.M.A. (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Huisman, B.J.A. (author), Reyns, J.A.H. (author), Costas, Susana (author), Nienhuis, Jaap (author)
Prediction of the shoreline response behind offshore breakwaters is essential for coastal protection projects. Due to the complexity of the processes behind the breakwaters (e.g., wave diffraction, currents, longshore transport), detailed modelling needs high computational efforts. Therefore, simplifying the process effect in a simpler...
journal article 2020
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Huijten, Esmee (author), Roelvink, Yannick (author), Brackenhoff, Stefanie A. (author), Bakx, Tom J.L.C. (author), Zaalberg, Stan (author), Baselmans, J.J.A. (author), Karatsu, K. (author), van Hoven, M.B. (author), Endo, A. (author)
The next technological breakthrough in millimeter-submillimeter astronomy is 3D imaging spectrometry with wide instantaneous spectral bandwidths and wide fields of view. The total optimization of the focal-plane instrument, the telescope, the observing strategy, and the signal-processing software must enable efficient removal of foreground...
conference paper 2020
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Elmilady, H.M.S.M.A. (author), Van Der Wegen, M. (author), Roelvink, D. (author), van der Spek, A. (author)
Intertidal shoals are vital components of estuaries. Tides, waves, and sediment supply shape the profile of estuarine shoals. Ensuring their sustainability requires an understanding of how such systems will react to sea level rise (SLR). In contrast to mudflats, sandy shoals have drawn limited attention in research. Inspired by a channel...
journal article 2020
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Duro, G. (author), Crosato, A. (author), Kleinhans, M. G. (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Uijttewaal, W.S.J. (author)
Vessel-induced waves affect the morphology and ecology of banks and shorelines around the world. In rivers used as waterways, ship passages contribute to the erosion of unprotected banks, but their short- and long-term impacts remain unclear. This work investigates the effects of navigation on bank erosion along a reach of the regulated Meuse...
journal article 2020
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Bertin, Xavier (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Arnaud, Gaël (author)
Wave run-up and dune overwash are typically assessed using empirical models developed for a specific range of often-simplistic conditions. Field experiments are essential in extending these formulae; yet obtaining comprehensive field data under extreme conditions is often challenging. Here, we use XBeach Surfbeat (XB-SB)-a shortwave-averaged...
journal article 2019
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author)
The accurate prediction of extreme wave run-up is important for effective coastal engineering design and coastal hazard management. While run-up processes on open sandy coasts have been reasonably well-studied, very few studies have focused on understanding and predicting wave run-up at coral reef-fronted coastlines. This paper applies the short...
journal article 2018
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Van Rooijen, A.A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), McCall, R.T. (author), Van Dongeren, A.R. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
Over the past decades the effect of vegetation (e.g. kelp, mangroves, sea grass) on nearshore coastal processes has received more and more attention. In recent years several numerical wave models have been extended to include this effect. In the current study, the numerical storm impact model XBeach was extended with formulations found in...
conference paper 2015
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Pomeroy, A.W.M. (author), van Dongeren, A. (author), Lowe, R.J. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author)
Low frequency wave resonance has been postulated to enhance damage to coral reef protected coastlines during storm events. This paper uses the numerical model XBeach to examine the dynamics that contribute to resonance that have been previously observed on a fringing reef on Guam during tropical storm Man-Yi (Péquignet et al., 2009). The methods...
conference paper 2012
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Dastgheib, A. (author), Rajabalinejad, M.R. (author), Ranasinghe, R. (author), Roelvink, D. (author)
This paper demonstrates the sensitivity of morphological process-based models to the chronology of input wave conditions. In this research the effect of an emerged offshore breakwater on the morphology of the beach is investigated. A 30 day long morphological simulation with real time history of the wave (brute force - base case) is compared...
conference paper 2012
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Daly, C. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), McCall, R.T. (author)
The effect of short wave breaking on low frequency waves is investigated using two breaker formulations implemented in a time-dependent numerical model (XBeach): (1) an advective-deterministic approach (ADA) and (2) the probabilistic breaker formulation of Roelvink (1993). Previous research has shown that the ADA breaker model gives different...
conference paper 2010
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Haas, P.C.A. de (author), Rijks, D.C. (author), Ruessink, G. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Gent, M.R.A. van (author)
report 1999
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Roelvink, J.A. (author)
The transformation of certain parameters of an incident random wave train across the surf zone has been the subject of much study and modelling effort. In recent literature, two classes of models have been developed, which are both based on the wave energy balance or the wave action equation, but use markedly different approaches. The main goal...
report 1992
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Roelvink, J.A. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)
conference paper 1990
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