Observations of Bedform Migration and Bedload Sediment Transport in Combined Wave-Current Flows

Bedload transport is an important mechanism for sediment flux in the nearshore. Yet few studies examine the relationship between bedform evolution and net sediment transport. Our work contributes concurrent observations of bedform mobility and bedload transport in response to wave dominant, current dominant, and combined wave-current flows in...

Modelling Vertical Variation of Turbulent Flow Across a Surf Zone Using SWASH

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to propagation of irregular waves in a barred surf zone, and the model results are discussed by comparing against an extensive laboratory data set. This study focus not only on wave transformation in the surf zone, but also on the numerical prediction of...

Hydrodynamics of the Surf Zone

Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline. When waves break on a gently sloping beach, large amounts of energy are released and turned into turbulence. As the waves keep breaking and interacting with...

Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach

The transformation of certain parameters of an incident random wave train across the surf zone has been the subject of much study and modelling effort. In recent literature, two classes of models have been developed, which are both based on the wave energy balance or the wave action equation, but use markedly different approaches. The main goal...

Evaluation of the field experiments in the surfzone near Egmond aan Zee

The present report gives a summary of all the data collected during the field campaign at the beach and in the nearshore zone near Egmond aan Zee, the Netherlands in 1990. The field experiments are executed with the overall goal to improve the knowledge of the processes which govern the depositional and erosional responses of the surfzone,...

Characteristics of Turbulence Structure and Undertow in the Surf Zone

The characteristic motion of water under breaking waves and the turbulence structure in the surf zone were investigated through detailed two-dimensional velocity measurements in a wave flume. Significant difference was found between the breaking processes in the outer and inner regions of the surf zone. The velocity field in each region consists...

Some aspects of sediment concentrations in the surfzone: Results of measurements at Groote Keeten until February 1986

Kinematics and Directionality of Waves in the Surf Zone

Realistic modelling of the internal kinematics of wind waves breaking on a beach is of great practical importance, e.g. for the modelling of coastal processes and for the design of coastal structures. A fundarnental aspect in this modelling concerns. the relation between the surface elevation and the internal kinematics. In this respect it...

Natuurmetingen aan de kust te Egmond in mei en juni 1981: Inrichting en gebruik van de meetopstelling en kosten

Natuurmetingen aan de kust te Egmond van september 1982 tot januari 1983: Meetseries 0000 en 1000 : metingen ten behoeve van onderzoek bruikbaarheid meetinstrumenten

Natuurmetingen aan de kust te Egmond van september 1982 tot januari 1983: Inrichting en gebruik van de meetopstelling en kosten

Wave Heights and Set-up in a Surf Zone

A theoretical model is developed for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. In the time averaged equations of energy and momentum the energy flux, radiation stress and energy dissipation are determined by simple approximations which include the surface roller in the breaker. Comparison with measurements shows good agreement. Also the...

A method of computation of unsteady wave-driven coastal currents: Test-cases of RIPCEL: report on mathematical investigation

Natuurmetingen aan de kust te Egmond: Plan voor activiteiten in 1982