Searched for: subject%3A%22waves%22
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McAllister, M.L. (author), Pizzo, N. (author), Draycott, S. (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author)
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form unforced steep waves, i.e. nonlinearity or dispersion, are thought to have a strong influence on the onset of wave...
journal article 2023
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McAllister, M. L. (author), Draycott, S. (author), Davey, T. (author), Yang, Y. (author), Adcock, T. A.A. (author), Liao, S. (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author)
Axisymmetric standing waves occur across a wide range of free surface flows. When these waves reach a critical height (steepness), wave breaking and jet formation occur. For travelling surface gravity waves, wave breaking is generally considered to limit wave height and reversible wave motion. In the ocean, the behaviour of directionally...
journal article 2022
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, Pieter B. (author), Guza, R. T. (author)
A fully nonlinear non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves is derived based on the nonlinear shallow water equations to study the nearshore dynamics of infragravity (IG) waves. Based on simulations of waves on a relatively moderate and mild beach slope with a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model (SWASH), the new theory shows that spatial...
journal article 2022
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Hu, Z. (author), Lian, S. (author), Zitman, T.J. (author), Wang, H. (author), He, Z. (author), Wei, H. (author), Ren, L. (author), Uijttewaal, W.S.J. (author), Suzuki, T. (author)
Wave height attenuation in vegetation canopies is often all attributed to the drag force exerted by vegetation, whereas other potential dissipation process is often neglected. Previous studies without vegetation have found that opposing currents can induce wave breaking and greatly increase dissipation. It is not clear if similar process may...
journal article 2022
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Wüthrich, D. (author), Shi, Rui (author), Chanson, Hubert (author)
Highly turbulent free-surface flows are characterised by complex and rapidly varying air-water surface features, leading to enhanced surface roughness, breakup and disintegration processes. Such a strong free-surface turbulence has an impact on a number of environmental flows, and a deeper understanding of its physical nature is fundamental....
journal article 2021
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Salmon, J.E. (author)
Stochastic wave models play a central role in our present-day wave modelling capabilities. They are frequently used to compute wave statistics, to generate boundary conditions and to include wave effects in coupled model systems. Historically, such models were developed to predict the wave field evolution in deep water where the conditions of...
doctoral thesis 2016
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Mil-Homens, J. (author)
Longshore Sediment Transport (LST) is one of the main drivers of beach morphology. It works at temporal scales ranging from hours to centuries and at spatial scales ranging from tens of meters to hundreds of kilometres. Episodic, large LST rates can result in important physical impacts such as inlet closure, rapid build-up of ebb/flood shoals,...
doctoral thesis 2016
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Choi, BongJun (author), Huijsmans, R.H.M. (author)
conference paper 2016
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De Bakker, A.T.M. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B.G. (author)
A high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral analysis to identify the dominant, nonlinear interactions and estimate energy transfers to investigate energy flows within the...
journal article 2015
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Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to propagation of irregular waves in a barred surf zone, and the model results are discussed by comparing against an extensive laboratory data set. This study focus not only on wave transformation in the surf zone, but also on the numerical prediction of...
conference paper 2014
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Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Powell, M.D. (author), Pietrzak, J.D. (author)
Waves breaking at the ocean surface are important to the dynamical, chemical and biological processes at the air-sea interface. The traditional view is that the white capping and aero-dynamical surface roughness increase with wind speed up to a limiting value. This view is fundamental to hurricane forecasting and climate research but it has...
journal article 2012
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Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and...
conference paper 2012
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Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and...
conference paper 2012
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Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author)
Large parts of The Netherlands are protected from flooding by a narrow strip of sandy beaches and dunes. The aim of this thesis is to extend the existing knowledge of dune erosion during storm surges as it occurs along the Dutch coast. The thesis discusses: • A large scale dune erosion experiment to obtain better insight in near dune...
doctoral thesis 2009
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Suastika, I.K. (author)
Blockage of waves by a current can occur if waves are propagating on a spatially varying opposing current in which the velocity is increasing in the wave propagation direction. The ongoing waves become shorter and steeper while they are propagating against the current. Blocking occurs at the location where the opposing current strength is the...
report 1999
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Anonymus, A. (author)
In this text we will discuss the actions that were taken to solve the 2D surf beat equations which prescribe the forcing of waves through dissipation of short waves. The equations were solved by using and adapting the already available subroutines in TRISULA which are used there to solve the transport of pollutants. The variations in short wave...
report 1997
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Van Gent, M.R.A. (author)
Wave interaction with berm breakwaters is studied by means of a physical model and a numerical model. The physical-model tests have been used to verify the wave motion as calculated by the numerical model. The numerical model based on finite-amplitude shallow-water wave equations is capable of simulating the wave motion both on and inside the...
report 1997
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Boers, M. (author)
The present report describes some of the results obtained during experiments in the Large Wave Flume of the Fluid Mechanics Laboratory of the Delft University of Technology. The experiments are part of the PhD-work of M. Boers. They follow on the LIP llD-experiments, carried out in the Delta Flume of Delft Hydraulics in spring 1993. During the...
report 1996
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Svendsen, I.A. (author), Putrevu, U. (author)
Review paper on the recent progress in the field of wave modelling in the surf zone. The authors have the following concluding remarks (taken directly from the rapport): Wave breaking provides the forcing for larger scale motions in the surf zone. It is therefore probably both somewhat ironic as well as unfortunate that at the present time there...
report 1995
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Boers, M. (author)
The present report gives the results of a study on bedforms and undertow in the surf zone. It is the objective of this study to get a better insight into the physical processes in the surf zone. In this study, we make use of the data obtained during the LIP llDexperiments (Arcilla et al. [1994] and Roelvink and Reniers [1994]). We derive the...
report 1995
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