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D.C.P. van Kester

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Physical model experiments are conducted in a wave basin to investigate the influence of directional spreading on wave overtopping in shallow water. Offshore wave steepness, wave height, water depth, and directional spreading are systematically varied to assess their impact on the non-dimensional mean overtopping discharge (q∗). Additional tests with oblique wave attack are performed to examine the role of the wave direction. To better understand the underlying hydrodynamics, the dependence of low-frequency wave energy on directional spreading is analyzed. Results confirm that low-frequency wave energy strongly depends on directional spreading, consistent with previous studies. An empirical formulation is introduced to predict the ratio of low-frequency wave height to total incident wave height using the relative water depth, the offshore wave steepness, and offshore directional spreading, achieving an R 2=0.91. Excluding directional spreading from the formulation decreases the R 2 to 0.38, highlighting its importance. Variations in low-frequency wave energy also affect q∗, as low-frequency waves temporarily raise the water level, leading to larger overtopping volumes and thus higher q∗. Consequently, directional spreading influences q∗ primarily through its effect on low-frequency energy, particularly in shallow water. To evaluate how existing prediction tools perform under these conditions, several formulations for q∗ are assessed. Their performance ranges from poor to reasonable, with the best results using the formulation in De Ridder et al. (2024) that were based on 2DV tests in shallow water rather than 3D tests including directional spreading. The tests with oblique waves show that the existing formulation captures the trends found in shallow water. Therefore, the existing formulation for the influence of oblique wave attack is also recommended for shallow water. To incorporate directional spreading effects into overtopping prediction, the relative crest height was adjusted by including the contribution of the low-frequency wave height as done in De Ridder et al. (2024). Due to reduced correlation between the short-wave steepness and the low-frequency height in this new dataset, coefficients could be estimated more reliably. The revised equations are validated against (long-crested) wave flume and new datasets with both short- and long-crested conditions and oblique attack. The expression including the low-frequency wave height results in the highest accuracy (R 2=0.87, Equation (32)) and is recommended, while a relatively simple expression with only the relative crest and short-wave steepness also performs well (R 2=0.83, Equation (28)). ...
Individual overtopping events are important variables when designing a coastal structure as they can deviate significantly from the mean overtopping discharge. Thus, in this study, extreme overtopping events at rubble mound structures with a smooth crest in shallow water have been studied. Both the water layer thickness (flow depth), front velocity and individual overtopping volumes are measured in a wave flume for typical coastal structures with a smooth crest in shallow water for a large range of hydraulic conditions and three different foreshore slopes. An analysis of the individual overtopping volumes shows that the largest individual overtopping volumes arise from short waves that travel on the crest of a low-frequency wave in shallow water and short waves that travel on top of the trough in deep water. Due to the temporal water level variation caused by the low-frequency waves in shallow water, there are fewer overtopping events compared to deep water conditions with the same non-dimensional overtopping discharge. However, the individual overtopping volumes of these events are larger. To quantify the extreme overtopping variables, an empirical formulation based on the relative crest height and short-wave steepness is proposed for the non-dimensional 2 % exceedance water layer thickness, front velocity and individual overtopping volume in terms of incident waves with an R2 of 0.84, R2 of 0.55 and R2 of 0.85 respectively. A further small improvement is found when the low-frequency wave height and 2% exceedance wave height are included, but the added value of this expression does not outweigh the additional wave variables needed for the expression. A log-normal distribution with a constant shape and an expression for the scale of the distribution is proposed to describe the distribution of the individual overtopping volumes in shallow water which accurately captures the distribution (R2 of 0.90). Compared to most of the current design approach which is based on a cascade of empirical formulations, this is a significant improvement. In addition, the reasonable results for a distribution with a constant shape parameter show that the shape of the distribution does not change significantly for shallow water conditions. ...
Journal article (2024) - Menno P. de Ridder, Dennis C.P. van Kester, Rick van Bentem, Djimin Y.Y. Teng, Marcel R.A. van Gent
Wave overtopping of coastal structures has been studied using physical model experiments with rubble mound breakwaters in shallow water. The mean overtopping discharge is determined for three different foreshore slopes and various hydrodynamic conditions. The hydrodynamic results confirm that energy is transferred to low-frequency waves in very shallow water and that the short waves are in phase with the lower-frequency waves in very shallow water. As a result, the extreme waves (e.g. 2% exceedance wave height) become relatively large in very shallow water due to the energy of the low-frequency waves affecting thereby the wave overtopping. To estimate the amount of energy at the low-frequency waves, an expression is derived which reasonably accurately predicts the low-frequency wave energy (RMSE of 0.06). Considering the non-dimensional overtopping discharge, the existing formulations for the non-dimensional mean wave overtopping discharge perform poorly to reasonably in shallow water with RMSLE ranging from 1.04 to 2.92. A parameter sensitivity study shows that the short-wave steepness, relative crest height and the low-frequency wave height are the most important parameters when predicting the mean overtopping discharge in shallow water. When including the short-wave steepness and relative crest height in an empirical formulation the RMSLE for the current dataset reduces to 0.69. A further increase in accuracy is found when the low-frequency wave height and 2% exceedance wave height are included (RMSLE 0.64). ...
Conference paper (2023) - Daan van de Ven, Bas Hofland, D.C.P. van Kester, Greg Smith, Alessandro Antonini
When constructing land reclamations, often sand is placed on top of the coarse rock of the bund surrounding the reclamation. The use of a geometrically open filter between the interface of sand and rock could be cost effective. It is expected that even a geometrically open filter with sand on top of gravel might be stable due to the arching mechanism. For such a “reversed” open filter the actual stability is unknown. Hence this study focusses on the stability of a reversed geometrically open filter under cyclic loading. This paper mainly describes the development of the test setup. First the numerical model OpenFOAM was used to extract the gradients from a representative case study. Next a test setup was developed to generate these low-magnitude loads at full-scale. Various sand-filter combinations were tested, with a range of ratios of the diameters of the gravel filter (D15F) and the sandy base layer (D85B) and sand with a unimodal distribution. They were tested for both parallel (i//) and perpendicular (iꞱ) gradients. The order of magnitude of the occurring gradients obtained with the numerical model for the case-study were a parallel gradient of i//,2% ≈ 1%, decreasing to 0 going downward, and a rather constant perpendicular gradient of iꞱ,2% = 0.2-0.3 for the lowest 4 m of the reversed granular filter. The critical perpendicular gradients were estimated at iꞱc ≈ 0.2 to 0.1 for filter ratios of D85F/D15B = 7.5 to 9.5. The critical parallel gradients were measured at i//c ≈ 2% down to 1%, but might be influenced by simultaneously occurring perpendicular gradients. Even though for the test case no stable situation could be proven with respect to the perpendicular gradient, realistic situations with stable reversed open filters seem possible. ...