Today’s fashion industry is characterised by a continuous cycle of rapid production, early disposal, low-quality materials, and pre- and post-consumer waste, with consequential environmental damage and social injustice. The production of denim involves a resource-intensive and lengthy supply chain, in which a lack of evolution in design over the past 150 years is coupled with significant pre-consumer waste.

This highlights the need to reevaluate the design and manufacturing process. Conventional pattern designs result in a significant portion of newly woven material sent to incineration and landfill. 3D weaving presents an innovative niche design-manufacturing technique, allowing for the creation of multi-layered structures with interwoven ‘seams’. This enables the production of nearly complete garments, while aiming for zero waste and reducing labour-intensive steps at the cut and sew stage.

To unlock the potential of 3D woven denim and demonstrate how such niche techniques can be utilised to achieve systemic change, a Systems-Oriented design approach is adopted. The research project analyses the complex denim supply chain and delves into the meaning of current and 3D woven denim. Field research at a denim mill in Pakistan formed the basis of a general ecosystem map, addressing various layers of the system from the final lens of the Dutch denim market. This includes material flow, fashion brands, consumers, post-disposal stage, government influence, and certifications. Further collaboration with 3D weaving experts, denim mills, designers, and user research supported the multifaceted approach.

The project concludes with a Systems-Oriented strategy to establish a local Dutch eco-label for 3D woven denim, alongside traditional denim: New-Fashioned Denim Dimensions. By involving relevant stakeholders in the denim system, including major brands and suppliers, an initiative structure and implementation roadmap are developed. The roadmap outlines key actions, such as refining zero-waste patterns, developing equipment and creating a training programme, necessary to establish local, vertical 3D weaving supply chain behind the label. The ultimate aim is to create a cascading effect, inspiring denim brands to further explore future transitions towards local and sustainable models in the broader fashion industry, extending beyond the realm of 3D weaving.